All ethnic groups have unique traditional garments that express their pride, heritage, and identity; each tells a distinct story of both the past and present.
In the Xhosa nation, this garment is Umbhaco wesiXhosa, known for its vibrant colours and diverse designs.
Known as Umbhaco wesiXhosa, this traditional attire has always been an integral part of the Xhosa speaking people's heritage. Umbhaco is a durable material used to create various bead-incorporated designs in IsiXhosa traditional wear.
The classic traditional attire consists of different pieces assembled into a layered garment. According to the Umbhaco website, the aesthetic of Umbhaco wesiXhosa has existed for nearly 200 years.
It is worn by both women and men, typically on celebratory occasions such as umgidi (ancestral ceremonies) or weddings. In isiXhosa tradition, men may wear skirts with a shoulder scarf piece, a beaded vest, or a beaded headband.
However, they are not limited to a skirt wrap as they can also wear trousers. The specific pieces worn depend on individual choice.
The video below provides a detailed explanation of how to wear the various pieces of the full garment set, including “Incebetha”, worn over the apron, and “Ibhayi”, draped over the shoulders as a sign of respect.
It also demonstrates how to tie the “Iqhiya” (head wrap) and wear the “Ingxowa”, a sling bag that completes the traditional attire.
Umbhaco material is a thick, coarsely woven cotton that is typically heavy.
The heavier the material, the more expensive it is. Umbhaco wesiXhosa is a garment that signifies pride and identity among Xhosa speaking people, and today it also serves as a fashion statement.
From traditional villages to Umbhaco wesiXhosa reimagined in high fashion couture, we now see a continuation of vibrant colours and bold prints.
Designers like Laduma Ngxokolo of the Maxhosa brand have introduced unique tribal prints that still incorporate isiXhosa patterns and colours, seamlessly blending heritage with fashion.
The “new age” traditional attire has become popular within the Xhosa speaking community and among people of other cultures especially during umgidi and weddings.
Below are some examples of the modern makeover of Umbhaco wesiXhosa, showcasing versatility.
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