Having left Kakamas with the Toyota Land Cruiser 79 and my offroad trailer still packed to the brim for 10 days of Orange River frontage, we turned the nose to the N7 drove through Pofadder, Aggeneys, Springbok and at Steinkopf turned off on the R382.
A few kilometres after the Anenous Pass, there’s a gravel road that heads to Eksteenfontein.
From here, we wouldn’t see tar again for 12 days. Tracks4Africa said it was badly corrugated and they weren’t kidding.
We had shifted to 4H and aired down the tyres on the Cruiser and trailer to make the drive more pliable but it still shook the fillings from your teeth, even after I had let more air out.
Just past Eksteenfontein, there was a sign pointing us towards Kuboes and the Namaqua 4x4 Echo Trail.
For us it was a pleasant surprise because a couple of years ago we did the route, but had to bail out on the last section that ends in Alexander Bay, as a result of a large puncture on one of the tyres that couldn’t be repaired.
We had made the call to adapt our plans because it’s not an area you want to be in without a spare wheel and we couldn’t find a replacement in the area either.
It’s a good thing we did because there are a number of steep climbs covered by shale and large sharp rocks that would shred the tyres if you drove the wrong line.
The road took us along the border of the 160 000 hectare Richtersveld World Heritage Site where the local Nama still practice their nomadic farming lifestyle.
Stopping to take videos and photographs, we realised that the sun would not be our friend during our time there. Hats and sunscreen would be a constant companion.
The airconditioning in the Land Cruiser made a world of difference as did the fridge in the centre console ensuring that water and cold drinks were ice cold.
More corrugations and soft sand was the order of the day until we finally reached the entrance to the park at Sendelingsdrif.
Entering the Richtersveld
I must tip my hat to Sanparks and their staff. Their website, booking and payment system works flawlessly and whenever we interacted with them they were welcoming, friendly and extremely knowledgeable.
There’s a tour explaining the fauna and flora in the park and maintained by passionate staff. While the area may seem harsh and unforgiving, it contains the world’s richest desert flora and is home to 30% of all of South Africa’s succulent plant species.
It would also be the last time we would have any sort of communication with the outside world, 10 days of no signal. Bliss.
Off the grid: finding our base
We had sent the park’s contact number to important friends and family so that if there was an emergency back home, someone would be able to inform us.
There’s something liberating about knowing that you won’t be distracted by social media, emails and spam calls and the only company you have are the two of you, lots of reading material and a fishing rod. Later, a troop of monkeys that took a liking to the Cruiser and an aggressive troop of baboons would also keep us on our toes.
We had booked at two sites, De Hoop and Richterberg.
After chatting to a delightful young man who works in the park and is busy doing extensive research into the flora for a dissertation, he suggested that if we could, rather stay just at Richterberg.
We asked at reception whether that was possible and the lady confirmed that there was only one other booking for two nights so we were welcome.
It was a blessing in disguise because breaking down camp in 45-50 degrees is not something you want to do regularly.
So, we headed towards the delightfully-named Halfmens Pass, Penkop Pass and Akkedis Pass to our camping spot via the Hand of God view site.
Ancient paths, Mountain passes
Halfmens Pass is named after the succulent plant (Pachypodium Namaquanum) unique to the region that grows between 2-3cm a year and always faces north.
Legend has it that when the Nama people were chased from the north in the late 18th century into the Richtersveld, it is said that anyone that looked north back to where they had been chased from, would turn into this plant forever.
Akkedis Pass is a winding, rocky ascent that you don’t necessarily need a 4x4 for, but it’s easier and in 4H the Land Cruiser made short work of it.
The hand of God is a hand-like eroded rock formation that locals believed was a sign of God.
It’s etched into rock formations that range from 700 million to one billion years old.
As you head towards the Orange River and the De Hoop site, there’s a steep descent where I used the Cruiser’s Downhill Assist Control.
It wasn’t that hectic, but being heavily loaded and towing, it allowed me to focus on the track without having to concern myself about braking or sliding as the traction control system directed brake pressure where needed.
From De Hoop to Richterberg it’s 10 kilometres.
I had been warned that it had to be done in 4L and towing could be treacherous because of deep soft sand.
With some trepidation, I switched to 4L and eased the accelerator.
Well, it turns out that the first few 100 metres is soft sand but from there it’s all rocks and boulders and sharp turns.
I suspect that the original access road was washed away in the 2020/21 floods and with all the debris that was left behind a new route was “built”.
Camp life on the Orange River
Both De Hoop and Richtersberg offer basic amenities with a cold shower, wash basin, flush toilet and washing up facilities.
There’s not a tree in sight that provides decent shade and we were fortunate as the only people there to park against the river with large bushes that gave some relief in the mornings and late afternoons.
We pitched a reflective tarpaulin for midday shade and for the next few days we quickly fell into a routine.
Coffee, swim in the river with a tube and small blow-up boat tied to a rock, brunch, swim, read, beer shandy, read, swim, move across to the afternoon shade, swim, read, beer, fire, sundowners, braai, wine, dinner and stargazing on dark moon evenings and a warm shower from the jerry can filled with river water and put on the coals from the fire.
I’m not a birdwatcher by any stretch of the imagination but we saw Kingfisher, Cranes, Fish Eagles, Cormorants and a beautiful display of about 200 geese gliding in to land about 100 metres from us.
Dealing with desert heat
It was hot, very hot. I had bought a cheap thermometer that went to 50 degrees.
On day one it got to 48 degrees and two days later whatever liquid they used (It wasn’t mercury) had separated because past 50 it had nowhere to go. Later we heard that it was 52 degrees on Christmas Day.
So we drank water, between two and a half and three litres a day to keep hydrated.
Exploring the surrounds
We did, however, spend one day in the cool cockpit of the Cruiser to return to Sendelingsdrif to drive the 79 Series without towing, top up with diesel and to purchase more water as a precaution. Also, ice cream as an afterthought.
Driving the route in reverse showed just how easily it copes with tough terrain and it’s not difficult to understand why it’s so popular among overlanders.
We were warned by the lady at reception that if we wanted to take a drive up the Abiekwa River bed not to tow anything.
She rolled her eyes when I responded with a smile that I had a “Cruiser”. Clearly I wasn't the first person to tell her that.
We had no intention to though and discovered why when we took a day trip up the river bed.
It's about a 28 kilometre loop that starts with soft powdery sand and then becomes a sharp twisting and turning rocky two spoor track before heading out the kloof.
This was 4L territory even in the Land Cruiser, and we could see signs of recovery diggings as people veered off the corrugated track in search of a smoother path.
It also provided a fantastic photo opportunity with magnificent rock formations as a background.
New Year’s at Tatasberg
New year’s eve would be at Tatasberg three kilometres up river in the “luxury” of a chalet with fresh linen, on suite bathroom, a separate kitchen, solar geyser and solar power between 8am and 8pm.
Behind the chalets there’s an eight kilometre “dead end” soft sand dry river bed called Echo Canyon, with a 20 minute climb up a path with a beautiful view over the park and deep into Namibia.
More pictures and a drink and with the sun setting over another beautiful day in Africa, it gave us an opportunity to use the ARB spotlights that lit up the path ahead spectacularly.
The journey home
Exiting the park the shortest route was over Helskloof Pass to get back to the N7.
It looked like a walk in the park so I handed the wheel to my partner for her first experience driving the Cruiser with a trailer nogal.
It turned out to be the toughest pass we had traversed that shook off a lock on one of the trailer doors.
It’s spectacular though with hundreds of hectares of Pearson’s Aloe along the way.
With some driving line guidance from me and a heap of help from the Cruiser we ended in Alexander Bay.
It's a sad-looking ghost town, a far cry from the heady days when De Beers were still actively mining.
The Namaqua 4x4 Eco route ends at the mouth of the Orange River so we duly headed there to complete the route, albeit a few years later.
The gravel road is raised above the marsh and soft beach sand and of course I missed the turn-off on the way back to be stopped by a dead end.
The turning circle of the Cruiser is like an oil tanker, but I figured we could make it.
Turns out I couldn’t. We unceremoniously slid down the side with two wheels barely on the edge of the road and the trailer precariously balanced in the sand behind us.
Fortunately this wasn’t my first rodeo, so after a deep breath, I moved the short leaver to low range, engaged the lockers, said a quick prayer and with just a hint of wheelspin, we were back on the hard stuff.
Not bad considering the tyres had been aired to normal running pressures.
It’s a long stretch from there to Khamkirri on the river, just past Kakamas. In fact, from leaving Tatasberg to checking in at reception we had spent 12 hours on the road.
Another 10 hour stretch to get home after two days and we finally wrapped up an incredible 3 286 kilometre adventure with unforgettable memories and experiences aided to a large degree by the Land Cruiser 79.
Our consumption calculations came to 14.2l/100km that included strong headwinds and lots of 4H and 4L stop start driving over rocks and loose sand.
You would not have got away with that in a V8.
Reflections: the Land Cruiser 79
Having had time to valet the car and reflect, I now understand why it’s so popular despite its shortcomings.
It’s noisy, especially with a headwind, to call the cabin sparse is an understatement, the sound “system” is atrocious, after a few hours your backside is begging for a break and the rear bench seat would be punishment over a long distance.
And yet… I love it and everything it stands for.
If I ever claim the money that long lost relatives keep wanting to give me by just giving them my details or I win the lotto, I won’t tell anyone, but there will be signs.
A fully overland kitted Land Cruiser 79 Series will be one of them.