Durban - I have always enjoyed the stretch of coast between Hibberdene and Port Shepstone.
It somehow has a different pace, less developed, each little seaside resort feeling like its own village. There are no million-dollar mansions cascading into the sea, the beach vegetation is intact and so the beaches are better and less crowded. Simply put, it feels a lot like the old South Coast we knew as kids.
So I could not refuse an opportunity to stay at Honeywood, offering upmarket chalets, a top restaurant and spa. It’s nestled high up above Southport on the edge of a strip of coastal forest. It was a chance to unwind.
Honeywood offers six spacious self-catering cottages. They are two-storied, two roomed apartments and comfortably appointed with a large living and lounging area. Both rooms are en suite with the main bathroom boasting a beautiful Victorian bath. And then everything opens on to the decks that look through the tree tops.
Owner Sharon tells me she has regular bird watchers who spend hours here with binoculars at the ready, enjoying the splendours of the canopy. I can see why.
I’m promised a pampering in the spa, which offers a variety of facials, manicures, pedicures and massages. I relax as Cynthia’s strong hands perform a relaxing Swedish massage. Here couples can get joint treatments out on the deck together. A nice touch. Afterwards I recline – some might say decline – to the deck and watch birds for the rest of the afternoon.
There is plenty to do on this part of the South Coast. Diving, fishing, hiking, trail biking all come to mind. The Port Shepstone Country Club offers golf on the estuary of the mighty Umzimkhulu River, but there are acclaimed golf courses at Selborne and San Lameer that are an easy drive. There’s the beaches at Umtentweni and Ainsdale at Southport with its beautiful milkwoods and blue flag status. Dolphin and whale watching excursions are on many an itinerary, while the local reptile park may intrigue (or terrify) the children.
And do not forget Oribi Gorge, with its zip lines and big swings, is around the corner so to speak. But this afternoon I am more than happy to commune with the birds. I didn’t even touch my book.
There are braai facilities on the deck for those who really want to relax and do it their way, but instead I am going to dine in the acclaimed Cellar restaurant where chef Dylan Smith serves a variety of exciting fine dining dishes – South coast style, of course.
The restaurant is, as its name suggests, situated in the cellar of the main house, around the pool. It’s a smart yet distinctly comfortable space and on a Tuesday night it’s pretty full with locals taking in the gourmet treats. And who should I meet up with but the KZN Philharmonic’s trumpet star Cathy “Hot Lips” Peacock who was treating her mom to dinner for a birthday.
I tucked in with relish to a good mussel and chourico hot pot, served in a Thai coconut broth with crisp julienned vegetables mopped up with chef’s home-made bread. Duck was next, the grilled breast perfectly pink and served with a duck meat parcel, potato croquet, green beans and a rich red wine reduction. Desserts are something of a speciality, and the deconstructed Pavlova was fun, I especially liked the lemon granita. The apple mille feuilli certainly caught my eye. Next time, and there will be a next time.
Breakfast is served with a smile in your chalet, a beautiful plate of fresh fruit with creamy scrambled eggs and bacon. And then it was home time, and back to the big city. Which some would say is definitely for the birds.
Call 039 6951036 or visit www.honeywood.co.za
Frank Chemaly, Sunday Tribune