Durban - Some might call it scary; others would find it exhilarating. It all depends on your personality type, and certainly the game guards did not seem concerned. We were walking in Mkuze’s famous fig forest, when the sound of rumbling, shredding leaves and branches in the nearby undergrowth betrayed the elephants browsing there.
Time to quietly pick up the pace. Not long afterward, we passed a large family of banded mongoose going unconcernedly about their business, and a trail of ants making their way up a huge tree trunk, while bird calls and the buzz of insects showed that life for the inhabitants continued at an unhurried pace.
So we, too, slowed down, and absorbed the tranquillity. Clearly, the elephants had better things to do than harass humans.
The forest is entered via two dramatic swing bridges over the Mkuze River inlets. Following the 3km boardwalk trail, a visitor comes across a captivating canopy walk with five interlinking aerial platforms. An ancient tree, brought down by high winds, has damaged one platform, but this is to be repaired.
According to Andrew Zaloumis, chief executive of the Wetland Park Authority – which is driving all the improvements in the reserve – a sixth platform is to be added, bringing it to a height of about 14 metres.
“Design and construction has taken into careful consideration the dynamic nature of the Mkuze River and its fig forest, which from time to time experiences natural floods and the toppling of trees,” said Zaloumis.
“This flooding is an integral component of eco-systems’ functioning – essential to sustaining the fig forest as it supplies nutrients, flushes salt, and replenishes the forest’s water table. The toppling of trees opens up the canopy and the forest floor to direct sunlight,” he said.
This guided walk into the magical forest is one of the highlights of a visit to the 38 500ha reserve. Keep a lookout for the rare wattle-eyed flycatcher; pel’s fishing owl; trumpeter hornbill; and white-backed vultures.
While there are almost 1 000 different species of fig forests in the world, we were told this is the only unspoiled fig forest of its kind in Africa.
By now the sun’s rays were low over the beautiful Nsumo Pan, where we took a stroll, and wished we could bed down there for the night. The hides at the pan have been upgraded, as has the pretty picnic site.
Other upgrades include the eMshopi camp site, which was once closed due to water problems. Always a favourite with campers, it is again open. Many indigenous trees have been planted, while the small cliffs nearby add colour, especially at sunset.
The eMshopi (close to the town of Mkuze) and Ophansi (on the road to Sodwana Bay) entrance gates have been given a facelift, following the lines of all the wetland park’s gates.
Shaped like Tonga baskets and fish traps, they seem to float in their environment. All the entrance gates will have GPS co-ordinates and a reception area. Many are still works in progress.
Then there is the Lebombo lookout tower. An easy climb opens up a 360° vista. The kuMasinga, kuMahlala and kwaMalibala hides are also being dollied up, and roads in the reserve resurfaced.
Birders have long favoured Mkuze, where 420 of iSimangaliso’s 526 recorded avian species can be spotted. It is also home to elephant, cheetah and 300 buffalo. A second pack of endangered wild dogs has been introduced.
“We want to enhance visitors’ experience of this magical world heritage site,” said Zaloumis. - Sunday Tribune