Durban - Nambiti Private Reserve near Ladysmith, KwaZulu-Natal, is a 10 000 hectare gem.
And within that, another, rather like a Russian nesting doll. Elephant Rock Private Safari Lodge is that gem – the closest lodge to the entrance gate and parking lot but, if it wasn’t signposted, you would miss it.
The thatched buildings are well hidden among trees and bushes on a steep slope above a large watering hole, sadly shrinking in the drought. Hard times, but it does make for great game viewing as animals make more use of it. So it was that we could watch giraffe, elephant and other game visit while dangling like kids from our suspended chairs outside our room, from the deck, or from the swimming pool area, birds whirring about and resident kudu playing peek-a-boo.
Human and animal interaction is what a stay at Elephant Rock is all about. There are no televisions and minimal cellphone reception. And it’s intimate, accommodating only 10 in five well spread out chalets – one being a large family unit. Meals are communal – either on the deck in fine weather or indoors. Never fear about stilted conversation. There’s plenty to chat about.
I’ll start with the food. It’s always a talking point. The only criticism is that it’s too good to resist. Our lunch as we arrived was light, fresh, varied and tasty. Dinner after our afternoon/evening game drive was somewhat richer and beautifully presented, but only the most disciplined left anything on their plates. It’s all too easy to while away the night around a fire under the stars with a drink in hand (the wine list was very reasonable) and happy company, but it pays to bear in mind that morning game drives are dawn affairs.
Of course, the game is another talking point. I’ve been to Nambiti several times and always had great sightings. If, however, game is scarce, a good guide such as Stephanie Washington is essential. There was game aplenty though. I think it was only the ever-elusive leopard that I missed out on.
We got really close to a large herd of elephants and had to reverse away from a massive lone bull who claimed right of way.
We saw hyena out and about as well as serval, secretary birds, rhino, jackals and much more. I was surprised that the massive eland allowed us so close, delighted to see my favourite antelope – gemsbok – and pleased to meet one of the very proactive and efficient anti-rhino poaching squads.
In between, Washington edutained us in her witty way with the history and development of the reserve, put to rest various myths about game and the bush, and generally delighted us with her verve and passion.
Between meals and drives, we thought about a visit to the nearby Elandslaagte battle site and memorial, but rather enjoyed the pool and our cool room – airconditioned, of course, a bath with a view of the watering hole, an indoor shower and an outdoor shower.
Which brings me to another talking point: two males, same surname, people make assumptions. Certainly our fellow guests gave each other meaningful looks once we explained we were brothers.
I’m not sure the staff knew– maybe they are romantics anyway. Either way, the strewn rose petals and candles lighting the way to the outdoor shower after dinner was a lovely touch.
A big talking point is the staff. They make Elephant Rock as good as it is. The location and lodge are the stage upon which they do as much as possible to ensure your complete satisfaction.
Everyone was gracious, friendly and comfortable in their roles, and the vibe was easy going. I’ve heard “the drill” at many bush lodges, but hostess Rene Erasmus just does it a bit better in my opinion. Those little things make a difference.
I’ve been to bigger, smaller and swankier, but Elephant Rock is, as Goldilocks would have said, just right.
Call 036 637 9604/083 268 9026, e-mail [email protected] or visit www.elephantrocklodge.co.za
Adrian Rorvik, Sunday Tribune