Injasuti, also spelled iNjisuthi, was called Solitude before KwaZulu-Natal’s provincial parks authority took it over in 1980. The present name means something along the lines of well-fed or satiated dog. This was because in older times so much game, mainly eland, used to be seen grazing in this lush valley at the foot of one of the most spectacular sections of the Drakensberg that the locals thought of it as a place where they and their dogs could eat their fill.
Regular visitors to the Ezemvelo KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife camp say eland are now often seen in the area after having been wiped out early last century. On a recent visit we spotted antelope droppings but none of the graceful animals that so delighted the San they made them the most regular feature of their rock art, which can be found in the region’s many caves.
Injasuti’s former name, Solitude, spoke for itself. To me, a visitor taking a break from city life, it used to have a particular appeal. It is an area of tranquillity in one of nature’s most beautiful settings.
But one morning, as I was staring at the mountain and entertaining thoughts about the place’s peace and quiet, the silence was rudely interrupted by the beat of an African drum that grew louder and louder as it came closer. Irritation at the intrusion quickly changed to understanding when it was explained that the tribal-dancing troupe were children from the neighbouring village. Schools were closed for the day, which was the Friday after June 16, and they had come to entertain us rather than laze about. Fostering friendly relations with neighbouring communities has become a major and commendable objective of parks throughout South Africa.
The former private owner of what was then Solitude was a developer named Tiny Harries. I remember him telling me when I visited in 1973 how he originally planned to construct mountain paths along which people could ride scrambler motorbikes. But, shaking his head in puzzlement, he told me he dropped the idea after Tertius Myburgh, then editor of The Pretoria News where I worked at the time, had told him the noise would be like breaking wind in church.
My old journalist colleague, known for his passion for nature, was right. The valley is holy ground. Overlooking it is a peak named Monk’s Cowl, which in the evening strikes a particularly pious figure when etched against the glow of the western sky. At 3 229m, it is said to be the Drakensberg’s highest free-standing peak.
It is flanked by two enormous buttresses. To its right is imposing Cathkin Peak, and to its left even more robust Champagne Castle. Both had dustings of snow on their upper reaches when we visited in mid-June, making the monk stand out even more.
Cathkin is named after a place called Cathkin Bracs near Glasgow, Scotland. David Gray, the son of an early Scottish immigrant, first gave the name to his farm at the foot of the mountain. He also named the other buttress. Legend has it he did so after trying to climb to the top. He did not make it, but proceeded to celebrate with champagne anyway.
For all its charm, Injasuti, for some reason for many years, remained precluded from formal protection even though it was wedged between a forest area to the north and the sizeable Giant’s Castle Reserve to its south, which the British colonial government proclaimed in 1903 mainly to protect the rapidly dwindling eland population.
According to a pamphlet handed to me by the parks board office, the first registered owner of the 324-hectare valley was a Mrs Smith who lived in England. Who exactly she was and how she came to own it remain a mystery, but apparently she never got to see her property.
It was bought from her in 1920 by a farmer, Andrew Sclanders, who paid 2/6 (two shillings and six pence, which would come to less than a rand in today’s terms) an acre for purposes of summer grazing for his cattle. He named it Solitude, and on visits with his family they lived in a cave across the front of which they built a stone wall, the remains of which can still be seen.
It was Harries, who bought the land in 1968, who realised the place’s tourist potential. He built 18 neat huts, all with two bedrooms, a lounge/dining room and kitchenette, along the bank of the Delmhlwazini stream.
The names given to the contours and rock formations speak of that part of the Drakensberg’s rugged beauty. Just to the left of Injasuti peak is an enormous cliff face called the Trojan Wall. To the right are Scaly Peak, The Ape, Old Woman Grinding Corn and Ship’s Prow.
Unlike Cathkin Peak, Monk’s Cowl and Champagne Castle, most of these features are obscured from the camp by a mountain. But most can be seen a short walk away along the many trails traversing the hillsides and leading up the valley.
Several of the trails lead to caves that are popular overnight spots for regular mountaineers and more adventurous visitors. They go by names such as Lower Injisuthi, Upper Injisuth, Marble Baths and Grindstone Cave.
A guided tour high up the valley brings visitors to the Battle Cave, named so because of its striking San art also depicting figures pointing their arrows at each other.
Some trails cross into the Giant’s Castle reserve, of which Injasuti now forms part. There, even from a distance, can be seen the giant figure lying on its back, its boots pointing up and its arms folded on its chest, staring forever into the skies.
One question: how can a park as beautiful as Injasuti be served by as bad a stretch of road as most of the 30km from the turn-off from the main road to its entrance?
Parts of it leading through the picturesque community area are relatively good, but the rest speaks of a blatant disregard on the part of the authorities for tourists and the important part the industry has in bringing development and opportunities to the outlying areas of the country as well.
If You Go...
l Bookings can be made at www.kznwildlife.com, or by e-mailing [email protected], or telephone 033 845 1000.
l The fully-serviced huts sleep up to five people. The minimum cost is for three people at R840 a night. The cost for a further two is R140 a person. There is a cabin that sleeps groups of up to eight, and a camping site.
l All units have gas stoves and fridges, fireplaces and braai facilities. There are no plug points in the chalets, and electric lighting from a power plant is provided only from 5pm to 10pm.
l The road to Injasuti should not be travelled by an ordinary car in the dark. - Saturday Star