Durban - Seen from a long way off, there is little about the collection of dark grey, sloping roofs to quicken the pulse. But, as we climbed the high ridge towards our destination, it all changed.
Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge, the only private lodge in the Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park, is the latest addition to the Isibindi collection and quite unexpected. Its deceptively simple, clever architecture, designed to make a low impact on the environment, capitalises on natural light and makes the most of the awe-inspiring views across Hluhluwe iMfolozi.
Its energy is almost exclusively solar, with a back-up generator and a small reliance on Eskom. Water from a community-owned borehole is perfect for everything except drinking, but potable water is in plentiful supply.
The lodge is a joint venture by the developers, Isibindi Africa Lodges, and the Mpempeni community and the result of years of hard work, negotiation and passion which paid off handsomely.
It is now the first private concession within one of the oldest game reserves in the country. It takes nothing away from the 96 000ha that is Hluhluwe iMfolozi.
The main building is wide open from the bar at one end to the dining area at the other, with floor-to-ceiling cantilevered glass doors opening onto a wooden deck.
A fire pit on the deck and a large fireplace in the lounge ensure warmth even on the chilliest night.
The décor incorporates a wildlife theme, but an added touch is the extensive use of timber from the area for furnishings, including off-cuts cleverly fashioned into standing lamps.
The 12 suites and 10 villas mimic the design of the main building right down to the fireplace which heats both the bedroom and the bathroom.
The two honeymoon villas have the added luxury of private plunge pools. There is a spa and a curio shop, and a rim flow pool completes the picture. Still under construction is a small conference centre.
We received a warm welcome. Our car was left at the front door and the luggage whisked away to our villa. While we sipped on iced tea, manager Sphamandla Shabalala explained the activities and daily timing for game drives and meals.
Sphamandla – or Spha as he is affectionately known – has 15 years’ experience in the hospitality industry, ranging from Berg resorts to his last position at Thanda Game Reserve. Although Rhino Ridge only opened in March, he is stamping his mark on staff training and customer service. It shows.
The staff may be young and inexperienced, but they are unfailingly polite and attentive. The meals are excellent – continental buffet and English breakfast, high tea and a three-course dinner.
Happily, the chefs do not believe that because you’re in the bush you must eat venison every day.
Game drives are included in the package and the richness of the game the reserve offers makes them a must. The first of the day is early and cold, but there are blankets aplenty and hot drinks and snacks.
We were lucky: Hluhluwe Imfolozi delivered its treasures right down to wild dog and porcupine along with rhino, elephant and lion.
The international guests were agog with joy and couldn’t wait to get out again for the evening drive.
In between drives, a visit to the spa involved top-class treatment at reasonable prices. The salon also capitalises on the view, but I saw little of it as I was lulled into sleep.
Walks around the camp are limited as the protected area is small, but it’s worth the amble around the neatly laid out grounds. At night, walking from the lodge to accommodation is not allowed. except with a guide, as a precaution.
Rhino Ridge offers luxury in the bush. It is not a prohibitively expensive destination and it’s worth putting on your bucket list.
There are not many places where you can sit on your private deck at eye level with a Bateleur soaring on the thermals.
l Call 035 474 1473
l E-mail [email protected]
l Visit isibindi.co.za/rhino-ridge
Phillida Ellis, Saturday Star