Fat Fred the gecko spooked me out when I first saw him dart across the wall, but I was impressed with his hunter-gatherer techniques - hugely successful, given the size of his girth.
We were staying in Cederberg cottages to hike one of South Africa's best-kept secrets, the Sevilla Rock Art Trail.
The trail is in glorious surroundings, and has 10 superb sites from our hunter-gathering ancestors who painted up a storm in the Cederberg. There are more rock art sites per square kilometre here than anywhere else.
Veteran mapmaker Peter Slingsby has long sung the praises of this particular trail to us. With winter moving in with a vengeance, we spotted a five-day weather break and, on the spur of the moment, decided to throw our stuff into the car and, quite literally, headed for the hills.
From Clanwilliam, it's up the Pakhuis Pass (R364) for about 30km, crossing the Brandewyn River. The Strauss's farm, Traveller's Rest, lies just ahead, opposite the clearly marked beginning of the trail.
Curious about the name, we discovered that Haffie Strauss was in Sevilla, Spain, when her father bought the adjoining farm.
Waking up on the first morning to a brilliant red sunrise in one of the rustic stone cottages provided for visitors, with no sounds except the birds, the cows and horses munching quietly around us and the softly rushing river down the track, was a tonic. We drove back the 3km from the cottages to the road and, armed with walking sticks, fruit and water and - most essentially - Slingsby's The Sevilla Trail & Traveller's Rest, we trekked through the abundant yellow and purple oxalis, following painted white footprints which are found all along the trail.
After about a kilometre of pleasant walking, the first site is reached, tucked into a little grove. On the exposed surfaces of the rock is a remarkable painting: a blackened group of people seated in what looks like a Last Supper pose, with a similar, more faded group below.
The original paint was made of organic materials including red and yellow ochre and very old dassie poo (it becomes a gooey black tar-like substance). But it is prone to lichen growing on it - sadly, this will eventually destroy all paintings so affected.
Many of the human figures along the trail have characteristic "hook heads". This is not fanciful art; the red ochre has lasted longer than the pale colour that once filled in their faces. This "faded" phenomenon can also be seen on animals, leaving the false impression that they were incomplete.
The long, cool overhang of Site Five, with its large and ancient wild olive tree, seemed a good place for a pitstop, where we rested for a lunch break. This site, richly painted, includes my personal favourite - a wobbly-legged just-born zebra or quagga foal. Here, too, is the emblematic painting of the Sevilla Trail - The Archer, still startlingly clear, a stringy-legged hunter holding his bow with both hands.
Each of the 10 sites is clearly marked with its own number. The guidebook will tell you exactly what to look for once you arrive, and includes plants to look out for on the way. I was particularly excited to see the botterboom (Tylecodon paniculatus) with its short, fat stump and plump leaves.
The Sevilla Rock Art Trail is run by the Strauss family of Traveller's Rest, who let several rustic stone guest cottages.
It's an idyllic place to stay, though the cottages are not luxurious and you may want to take along extras for comfort.
The Sevilla Trail is a venture between the land's current owners and the SA National Museum. All sites are protected, and none of the art may be touched.
Having travelled over much of Southern Africa to visit rock art sites, I found the Sevilla Trail to be the most rewarding I've ever visited - accessible, easy to walk, with a richness of material in magnificent surroundings. It felt like finding the crown jewels.
- There is a second trail, Salmanslaagte, from the Traveller's Rest farm: 027-482-1824 or [email protected].
If you prefer a bit of luxury, there is smart accommodation in Clanwilliam. Slingsby's guide significantly enhanced our trip. It can also be obtained from the Kirstenbosch shop, Traveller's Rest and from www.themaps.co.za.
Further reading: Cederberg Rock Paintings by John Parkington and Cederberg Rock Art by Peter Slingsby, which includes details of additional sites for visiting in that area. Also visit the Clanwilliam Living Landscape Project at 18 Park Street: books and crafts are on sale, and they provide guides for some rock art trails. Call 027-482-1911.