Situated on the R511 near Hartebeespoort Dam this "call back the past" lodge is probably one of the area's best kept secrets.
My wife and I have driven this road for many years but we had never noticed its signage before.
From the turnoff on the R511 to the reception area at The Oxwagon Lodge it is 700m. We knew this because there are signs every 100m egging you onwards and upwards.
The road may be difficult to negotiate with a low-slung sports car, but it will not be a problem for regular vehicles. (Our forefathers managed to make it across mountain ranges with no four-wheel drive or GPS help). "Nearly there one last push", states the last sign, which is 50m from the parking lot in front of the reception area. (I am sure the Groot Trek wagon train would have welcomed signs like these.)
This quirky lodge is situated in such a manner that it has views of both "Harties" dam and the Witwatersberg. The 360º view at the end of the nature trail is well worth the one-hour round-trip walk. If you are uncertain about which trail to follow the two resident Jack Russell terriers are usually there to guide you.
Although usually used for weddings or weekend entertainment, this vantage point is ideal for its view of sunsets that are spectacular as only an African sunset can be.
But what makes the lodge special? All the rooms are refurbished and converted ox wagons. Dating from 1840 to 1934, these wagons have been restored in such a manner that the main bedroom is now under the canopy with a toilet/ shower and extra bedroom attached. Most of the wagons can sleep five and the lodge can accommodate 27 people.
Attached to the outside of each wagon is a printed history that includes a timeline of the rebuild of the particular wagon.
The wagon we slept in was built in 1895 and was known as a kaal wa (naked wagon). As it was used for transport it did not need a canopy, hence its name. When the wagon restoration was competed in 1994 the tent was added.
On the same property is a converted double-decker bus that now serves as a backpacker lodge. The upstairs of the vehicle can accommodate 10 people in a "train carriage" type sleeping arrangement. The lower deck can be accessed separately and sleeps eight. Both decks have a tea and coffee station to offer backpackers some creature comforts.
Next to the bus is an ablution block which has a shower, toilet and basin. The bathroom is a marvel of innovative design. The front section of the bus has been converted to incorporate a full size bath.
Access to the bath is achieved via a couple of steep steps, but the experience of using it is well worth the effort.
Between the backpackers and the wagons is a lapa/bar which has been festooned with items from a bygone era or they could have been collected at a local scrapyard. How they came to be there is unimportant - what they do is add to the style and period of the lodge.
The previous owner had an interest in bird eggs and insects and part of his collection can be seen in a small museum at the back of the reception area. This museum also pays homage to the oxwagon and wagon-building. I never realised how much work went into making a wagon wheel and, considering the hammering they took, they are a tribute to the craftsmen of the time.
A swimming pool is next to the compact conference centre and it overlooks the distant Witwatersberg mountain range. Unfortunately is also overlooks the current building boom that is taking place in the valley below the lodge.
Our dinner was served in the lapa, and as our visit coincided with Earth Hour, we ended up eating by fire and candlelight. For dinner we were supplied with substantial braai packs and all the guests use a prepared communal fire to cook. This makes for really interesting dinner conversation. It also turned out that I shared mutual friends with the other couples who were there that evening. Salads, together with pap with gravy, were also supplied, as well as homemade bread (which can be bought) and rooster brood, which we cooked over the open fire. And to finish off a wonderful meal a lekker koppie moer koffie.
The bed in our wagon was really comfortable and we were both grateful that breakfast is served at a reasonable time (8-10am), which meant we were able to lie in and enjoy the feeling of being part of South African history.
The panoramic view from the breakfast deck is spectacular and made breakfast even more enjoyable.
You are not going to find cereal and yoghurts on the breakfast menu at Oxwagon Lodge. Nee Meneer, this Boere ontbyt consisted of meat, meat and more meat. But the scrambled eggs were sublime. The menu here proves the fact that chicken is actually a vegetable.
If you don't have the time to stay overnight then we recommend the Sunday buffet lunch. The tables in the lapa groaned under the weight of meat, salads and more dessert that we were able to do justice to.
Staying here has given my wife and I a new respect for the ox-wagon and the role it played in opening up the interior of South Africa.
If you have guests coming out for the 2010 World Cup I suggest that you book a wagon now to give them a visit to our past.
While you are in the area, visit the Jasmyn Windmeul complex, which houses a restaurant and the best fruit and vegetable shop this side of the Crocodile River. If it's edible, they have it and it's all fresh and perfectly displayed for maximum effect. Great cheese and biltong and a range of rusks that even if you don't dunk you will want to.
- Contact details: Oxwagon Lodge: 078 075 0720; Website: The Ring;
Email: [email protected]