That awesome place - the windiest, coldest and highest of all land masses, with a beauty that's indescribable - Antarctica - is a high priority on many a travellers' must do list. The increase in global temperature is undisputed and emphasised by the powerful Al Gore film which has awakened many a true traveller to want to experience the last wilderness in as splendid a manner as possible.
To experience this in smaller vessels has great advantages - more and longer landings a day (three to four hours) and the ability of smaller vessels to get into tighter, seldom seen spots. Getting to know interesting fellow passengers who prefer intimacy to glitz-and-glam - which doesn't belong in stunning natural regions, anyway - is another advantage.
Above all: the fewer the people, the greater the silence. This kind of experience is becoming really scarce in life, forcing us into deserts and plateaux where nature is fully in control and our vulnerability is exposed.
Having been privileged to experience the Antarctic many times in a variety of vessels, I can recommend two ships which have scored high marks in the past season.
The Orlova, carrying only 110 passengers, was tried and tested by the TV show Top Billing. All her cabins are outside and have en suite facilities, while the lounge, bar and lecture room are generous, yet intimate, and recently refurbished. What I particularly like is the large open decks for a brisk walk, and the open bridge policy which allows one to spend those very early mornings watching the soft pink light on the pack ice. Its library offers a good selection of polar-themed books and the ship's doctors are young, efficient and trained to handle emergencies.
The Sarpik Ittuk, formerly plying the west coast of Greenland, has joined the Quark Expeditions fleet. Carrying only 82 passengers, this solid expedition ship sits well in rugged seas and is therefore well suited to explore the straits and fjords of both polar regions. All cabins are outside and en suite, and the glass-enclosed observation lounge and presentation room is a splendid addition. Recently refurbished for her Antarctic debut, this vessel also offers an open bridge, intimate areas for privacy, a well-stocked library and superb food.
The good news is I am holding a healthy allocation on both these vessels for three departures in February 2008. Whales are plentiful then, as is other wildlife.
A handsome brochure featuring a wide selection of unique travel experiences, from cruises aboard icebreakers, private train journeys, river cruises, dog sledding and small ship cruises to places as remote as Kamchatka and the Kuril Islands are available.
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