Autumn was firmly ensconced in the Southern Drakensberg. Each day she unpacked her travel bag and selected another bit of apparel red, russet, bronze, brown, gold, plum � to cast over the trees.
Surveying her handiwork, she occasionally nodded with
approval, then her hair would stir the wind, which in turn sent dead leaves scudding to the ground.
It truly is a magnificent time of the year, and nowhere was it more evident than at Kenmo Lake at Himeville, a hamlet near Sani Pass in the southern Drakensberg,
often used for photoshoots and by artists trying to capture nature in full autumnal array.
On the morning we visited, several people had brought their picnic baskets and were taking advantage of the perfect weather.
It being a long weekend, trying to find accommodation was not easy. South Africans may lament the decline in the economy, but it seems they are still able to afford
a short break in the countryside to recharge their batteries.
However, we managed to find a cottage for just one night at Eagles� Rock self-catering, perched on a hill along the road leading to Drakensberg Gardens a short distance from Underberg.
Each of Eagles� Rock�s cottages is built to a different style and named after various birds of prey. Some offer views of the mountains or of the farmlands and a lazily meandering river below.
We checked into Jackal Buzzard, where the upstairs bedroom presented the best views. If Kestrel had been vacant that would have been my choice. It was the quaintest, with its little pathway reached through a trellised archway.
Early the next morning I took the Kingfisher Trail to the dam on the property, and noticed another trail to a cherry orchard (but time was against me).
Colourfully painted boats, trees reflected in the water and total solitude were on the menu.
A visit to Underberg Cheesery presented the delights of homemade full-cream yoghurt, courtesy of the many Jersey cows on farms in the area and, had it been
the right season, I would certainly have tried tubing on the Umzimkulu River.
We headed for Ekuthuleni, where isolated cottages dot the landscape, with great views of the Berg. They were full, but I managed to do some lovely walks down to the river in the hopes of seeing some otters at play, but in vain.
There was time to walk among the fallen leaves in Himeville and chat to some people raking up leaves; then, after a bit of a runaround, we managed to get
the last room at Taylor�s Bed & Breakfast on the farm The Banks, a couple of kilometres outside of Underberg, where you can sit in the garden and look up towards
Hodgson�s Peaks on the main Berg.
A late-afternoon walk took me down to one of the dairies, where I watched cows eager to take up a spot on the milking carousel after feeding in lush pastures.
While walking through the fields down to the river, I encountered these same cows frisky and suspicious
of this interloper. By now the sunset was a fire in the sky, while black clouds looked like smoke from the inferno.
The next morning, an early walk along farm roads was
accompanied by mist and an icy wind. All this made the autumnclad trees stand out even more effectively on every horizon.What more could a visitor ask for?
Of course mountain air always fuels the appetite. The one day we tucked into lunch on the terrace of Moorcroft Manor, with uninterrupted views across the
grasslands to Hodgson�s Peaks.
We chose a French toast stack, layered with ham and melted cheese, and a side salad and a salad of poached pears, bacon, avocado, feta cheese, and various green leaves with an interesting sauce. No room for pud after that.
The Duck and Dolittle was a big drawcard for families wanting to show the kids the allure of farm animals and, not having had dessert the previous day, we indulged in cinnamon pancakes and cream. The highlight for me, though, was the milkshake, thick with farm cream. Just as well I don�t go to such places every day!
� Eagles� Rock 033 701 1757; cell 082 781 1430; [email protected]
� Taylor�s Bed & Breakfast 033 701 2011; [email protected]
� Ekuthuleni 033 701 1747; 072 458 5389
� Moorcroft Manor 033 702 1967; cell 083 303 5193; [email protected]