Character, charm and tigers

Published Jul 2, 2009

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On the edge of the Bandhavgarh National Park sits the first Indian safari lodge to gain membership of Relais & Chateaux, an exclusive global collection of fine hotels and restaurants.

Bandhavgarh is tiger country and Mahua Kothi, a souped-up hunting lodge, pays tribute to the great stripey beast with swathes of orange fabric covering the sofas, cushions and bolsters, and masses of terracotta pots decorating the grounds (though they are frequently tipped over by black-faced langur monkeys, who offer hours of free in-compound entertainment).

If the monkeys provide character (one of the five "Cs" by which a Relais & Chateaux member is judged), then the necessary courtesy, charm and calm are provided by Harpreet Singh Gill, who has managed Mahua Kothi since its opening in 2007. Gill's affability, hospitality and general attentiveness makes this the perfect place to come back to after three hours trailing tigers in the park. He has also trained the local staff to an impeccable but friendly standard.

The fifth "C" - cuisine - was until recently the province of Pravesh Bhatnagar, possibly the best chef in India, whose vegetarian dishes would convert the most hardened carnivore. He was poached within six months of the lodge opening, but the hotel claims standards have not fallen.

There are many great sights in India, but the view from the roof of Mahua Kothi as the sun goes down over Bandhavgarh is one of the best, especially when accompanied by the tinkle of ice announcing that the ever-considerate Gill is sending up drinks .

Guests stay in one of 12 "kutiyas", traditional mud and lime-walled bungalows, given more than a touch of luxury by charismatic designer Chris Browne, of the &Beyond luxury safari company. Expect to find his trademark cushions, toy cars and tribal carvings.

Beds are big and designed to keep you from making that 6am game drive. Wooden shutters and armchairs recall colonial days, while the air-conditioning leaves you grateful for the 21st century. The open rafters make it easy to hear monkeys scampering across the roof.

Here, orange dominates the décor again. The meticulous Browne was in Joburg when he heard that a turquoise cool box had been placed in the rooms for soft drinks. He immediately ordered orange covers for them.

Outside, each kutiya has its own dressed stone patio with a two-person dining table and orange cushions. The bathrooms are stocked with handmade Jiva Spa toiletries made from Indian herbs and essential oils. For the spiritually minded, there is even an orange "teach yourself Yoga" kit supplied.

Mahua Kothi has an admirable all-inclusive ethos. From the moment you arrive, you get whatever you want - be it Indian lager, French wine or tea and biscuits in the long hot afternoons.

With the exception of champagne, no extras will appear on the bill - not for laundry, nor for early morning coffee (how guests are woken for game drives) or fiddly things such as Internet use.

Three meals a day are provided. Breakfast on the game drive is eaten in the back of a Land Cruiser, lunch in the club house, and supper at various locations around the lodge. - Independent on Sunday

If You Go...

- VISAS: South African passport holders do not need a visa.

- INFORMATION: You need to be among the more affluent members of society as prices start from R18 000 to R30 000 per person per night based on two sharing. Children are welcome but they have to be over the age of five to go on a game drive.

- TO BOOK: Look up Mahua Kothi, Bandhavgarh National Park, Tala Village, Umaria, Madhya Pradesh on www.tajsafaris.com

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