The District of Columbia belongs to each of the 50 United States and has a rich cultural history. A 3,2km promenade - the National Mall - links the Lincoln Memorial to the capitol. It is lined with buildings of marble, adorned by massive columns; with water features and statues; and is flanked by the Smithsonian Museums.
From the terrace of the Washington Monument there are panoramic views over an expensive cityscape: the green expanse of the Mall running from east to west, the White House in the north and the Potomac flowing to the south-west - with the distant fields of Virginia beyond.
A short taxi ride carried us to the Hay-Adams Hotel on Lafayette Park - just across from the White House.
Formerly two adjacent homes belonging to President Lincoln's Secretary (John Hay) and to Henry Adams, great-grandson of President John Adams - this gracious residence, with its crystal chandeliers and walnut-panelled interior, is an island of elegance amid a whirlpool of political activity.
After breakfast at the hotel's Lafayette Restaurant, we crossed the Square to visit the White House where Marines stand guard. Advance bookings are essential.
This neo-classical mansion with its Grecian columns is a working administrative seat and the president may, at any time, be in his office. The historic landmark, at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue has been the official residence of every American president since George Washington - who approved the plans.
Although still early in the day, the pavements were crowded as we passed the rose garden and entered through the East Wing. Among the attractively decorated rooms to be viewed before exiting through the North Portico are: the Library, the Vermeil Room, the East Room, the Green Room, the Blue Room, the Red Room and the State Dining-Room.
The East Room, with its classical decor, is the largest and most formal of the state reception rooms - its treasures include a 1796 portrait of George Washington and a Steinway piano. The room has witnessed the lying in state of seven presidents including Abraham Lincoln in 1865 and John F. Kennedy in 1963. Next in line is the Green Drawing Room, furnished in the federal style with Sheraton antiques; while the oval Blue Room is decorated along French empire lines - as is the Red Room.
The mansion is surrounded by a park containing rare and exotic trees - it is an evocative museum to the memory of every president. Visitors are welcome, but foreign nationals need to contact their US embassies for tickets.
We discovered a great way to see the sights of DC - simply board the "Old Town Trolley Bus": a vivid, red people-carrier that circles all the major attractions. Just buy a day ticket and hop on and off at will.
All eyes are fixed on the commanding presence of a scene-stealer: 78.6m cast-iron dome crowning Capitol Hill and topped by Thomas Crawford's statue of Freedom. Pierre L'Enfant, the 18th-century French architect who planned the city, decreed that the then unfashionable Jenkins Hill was "a pedestal in need of a monument", and today, no building in DC may be more than 13 storeys high - ensuring that the Capitol remains the tallest edifice in town. All roads lead to this Renaissance Revival structure marking the centre of the district, and the White House is 1.6km away. The two focal points are linked by a ceremonial street: Pennsylvania Avenue.
Elaborate re-construction is presently in progress on the hill and visitors may need to wait in line for entrance tickets; but at the Capitol everyone is welcome.
Enter through the huge, bronze Columbus Doors at the top of the steps - opening into a massive, central vestibule: the Rotunda; and look up to view Brumidi's magnificent fresco in the eye of the dome - The Apotheosis of Washington.
The North Wing houses the Senate. The semi-circular and half-domed Old Senate Chamber has been authentically restored in rich crimson and still retains the original, gilded eagle above the vice-president's chair as well as an original portrait of George Washington by Rembrandt Peale. The present Senate chamber is decorated in deep blue and, from the Gallery, visitors can hear debates in progress. The South Wing is the impressive home of the House of Representatives; it contains the 50 state flags and busts of famous law-makers circle the walls. (Free guided tours of the Capitol are conducted Monday to Saturday)
Before leaving, visit the Supreme Court Building, the Library of Congress and the Senate Cafeteria to taste the famous, US Senate bean soup. (Recipes are freely available.)
Back on the red bus, we headed for the Mall where our next stop was the Bureau of Engraving and Printing. This is where money is made and the self-guided tour traces the process of paper currency production.
Born in France and educated at Oxford, James Smithson provided the legacy for the foundation of the Smithsonian Institution: the largest museum complex in the world. The next best thing to a walk in space is a visit to the Air and Space Museum. Here you can touch the Apollo II Moon Capsule; view the Saturn Rockets and Sky Lab; gaze at the Spirit of St Louis, in which Charles Lindbergh flew the first non-stop solo flight across the Atlantic; and marvel at the Wright Brothers' first plane. The exhibits are awesome and not to be missed. (Open daily. Free.)
There are 14 museums so choices must be made and we opted to explore the National Museum of American History. This amazing show house traces the development of the US through scientific, technological and cultural exhibits - from the original "Star-Spangled Banner" and a full gallery of Inaugural Ball gowns worn by the first ladies to George Washington's false teeth, old motor cars and early movie strips. (Open daily. Free.)
- Visa requirements: South Africans need a visa for the United States, which requires an interview at the US Embassy so it is essential to book well in advance.
- Suggested Hotels:
The Manor House Restaurant for contemporary American and French cuisine:
La Rue 123 for French cuisine www.larue.com www.cityrock.co.za
- Useful Information:
Tours of the White House must be booked in advance.
Tours of the Capitol
Old Town Trolley Tour
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