- TAKE A BOAT TRIP
The Boat Company in Simon's Town offers trips on a motor boat or 8m catamaran to Seal Island and Cape Point, whale watching or high-sea adventures. All are tempting, but seeing, smelling and hearing the seals up close is an unbelievably rewarding experience.
The boats leave from the harbour, where some of our arms deal billions are on show, and passes the Roman Rock lighthouse, the only off-shore lighthouse in the country. It opened in 1861 but no lighthouse keeper has been stationed there since 1919 and servicing is done by helicopter.
On route, we encounter a playful Bryde's whale, each swing of its tail bobbing us gently in the boat. Then the stench of the island hits us.
Seal Island is home to 75 000 Cape fur seals and 24 different bird species. An estimated 20 000 seal pups are born each year in the great white shark's hunting ground, a dangerous birthplace by any stretch of the imagination.
The seals are inquisitive and natural show-offs: they almost vie for our attention. We relished viewing them on their own smelly turf, not some soulless oceanarium.
Cost: R250 per adult, R150 per child
Contacts: 083 257 7760, email [email protected] or visit www.boatcompany.co.za
- SEE SHARKS UP CLOSE
The announcement that sharks and whales are to be included in South Africa's Big Seven top wildlife attractions is long overdue. These giants of the ocean attract thousands of tourists to the Cape.
False Bay is the only area in which great white sharks breach - no one seems to know why - and Apex Shark Expeditions allows you to witness this spectacle up close.
They also offer cage diving for the brave, and other packages. None are cheap, but they're sure to be memorable.
Cost: R1 140 to R1 710.
Contacts: 082 364 2738, e-mail [email protected] or visit www.apexpredators.com
- COMMUNE WITH THE BABOONS
Baboon Matters takes guided walks in the hills above Misty Cliffs and Kommetjie to see Chacma baboons, some of the Cape's last free-roaming large mammals. Human development has pushed them further and further south and today there are fewer than 300 left in the peninsula.
Most Capetonians deem them "problem" animals, but conservation group Baboon Matters believes humans are the problem as we've moved into their territory, bringing with us food and waste. In 2002, the group began baboon walks to educate the public.
Viewing the primates in their natural habitat, I felt like the Jane Goodall of Misty Cliffs. We witnessed incredible family ties, with nurturing moms, protective dads, randy teenagers and bullet-proof toddlers. The baboons completely ignored us - walking right past us as if we didn't even exist.
It's not exactly mind-blowing stuff this, but it is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that will change your view of baboons.
Cost: R300.
Contacts: 021 782 2015 or 084 413 9482 or visit www.baboonmatters.org.co.za
- LODGINGS FOR PENGUIN FANS
Boulders Beach Lodge on Boulders Beach in Simon's Town not only capitalises on its location but loves its penguins: it's evident from the curio shop downstairs, to the brochures, décor and the signs warning visitors to check under their cars for the cute little fellows.
We stayed in a cosy room with a view of the beach and within earshot of the braying pelagic birds, falling asleep to the sounds of crashing waves - and sometimes baboons rattling in the trees.
Sculptor Jacques Dhont's exquisite campher wood carvings of pre-historic water life are showcased throughout the lodge and restaurant.
The cosy restaurant has views of the ocean from the glass-enclosed deck.
On its website, the lodge boasts of the talents of a Pacific Rim chef with international experience, and we were very impressed with both breakfast and dinner - no wonder their restaurant is a popular Sunday lunch venue.
A bonus for lodge guests is that they can just roll on up to their bedroom after too much food, wine and fresh air.
Rates: R495 per person incl breakfast (until August) otherwise R575 to R695.
Contacts: 021 786 1758 or visit www.bouldersbeachlodge.com
- RIDE A HORSE ON NOORDHOEK BEACH
Noordhoek beach rides are legendary in the area. Sleepy Hollow Horse Riding is located on a smallholding stocked with horses and ponies. The animals are well-schooled and extremely tame.
Outrides are taken along the 8km stretch of beach, which has spectacular views of Chapman's Peak (yet again closed, despite both locals and tourists becoming increasingly vocal about it) and Kommetjie, where the whales recently beached.
Think only happy thoughts though as you ride your steed in the early morning along the misty beach towards the Kakapo shipwreck and past contented dogs walking their owners.
Sunset rides are impossibly romantic, watching the sun set towards Hout Bay's Sentinel mountain and breathing in the fresh air fragranced with fynbos and salt.
Therapeutic riding is offered at Sleepy Hollow by trained volunteers of the South African Riding School for the Disabled, and caters for riders of all ages and experience. Three rides a day are available.
Cost: R350 per person for a two-hour outride
Contacts: 021 789 2341 or 083 261 0104 or see their site, www.sleepyhollowhorseriding.co.za
- STAY AT INTIMATE, ECO-FRIENDLY hotel
The Noordhoek Farm Village has certainly grown in recent years. Besides curios, there are restaurants, a deli, a salon, tack shop and the De Noordhoek Hotel.
The hotel, constructed from salvaged and other eco-friendly materials, is surrounded by the Silvermine and Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserves. Four lemon trees are the only non-indigenous trees in the hotel's water-wise garden.
Even the complimentary soap and shampoo are environmentally friendly and locally produced.
The hotel is an intimate affair, with only 20 rooms, but four of them are fully accessible to the disabled.
It serves breakfast only, as the village has four other restaurants - one of which, Franck Dangereux's Food Barn, rates as one of Cape Town's finest.
The hotel is 2km from the beach, so you could walk there if feeling energetic.
Rates: R545 to R595 per person (low season)
Contacts: 021 789 2760 or visit www.denoordhoek.co.za
- ENJOY FRENCH FARE AT THE FOOD BARN
In keeping with Noordhoek's relaxed vibe, the Food Barn is pet and child-friendly, and serves sublime French fare.
For an even more relaxed experience, why not visit Franck Dangereux's bakery and deli? It's a great stopover for coffee and pastries, recipe books or fresh produce. It's all very French, but the prices are still local.
The Food Barn's winter bistro menu costs R175 per person, with a carafe of wine included.
If you're in the area during the week, Franck also offers cooking demos.
Contacts: 021 789 1390 or visit
www.thefoodbarn.co.za.
- Georgina Haupt was a guest of Cape Point Routes. For information on other attractions and accommodation options, visit www.capepointroute.co.za