Sandwiched within the heart of South Africa is the tiny landlocked kingdom of Lesotho that can be accessed from the Free State, KZN and the Eastern Cape through no fewer than 13 border posts.
And yet surprisingly few consider it a holiday destination, despite its convenient proximity, affordability and "wow" factor - it is stunningly beautiful, especially when greened by recent rains or dusted with fresh snow.
Think of Lesotho and many of us conjure up romantic images of timeless scenes where blanketed Basotho tribesmen ride surefooted ponies against the backdrop of breathtakingly beautiful mountains. That hasn't changed!
And if ever you indulged a passion for motorsport you might remember the original Roof of Africa Rally which dished up some of the most gruelling tracks to be found anywhere in Africa.
In fact, it was a bout of nostalgia and memories of the misery of a sub-zero night stranded on the summit of God Help Me Pass during the "Roof" that recently decided me to recapture the "good, old days" and follow in the wheeltracks of some of those early adventures.
Instead of a backbreaking rodeo-ride aboard a never-say-die, 1980s-style Hilux, I was pampered in the latest smooth-riding Toyota Fortuner.
And knowing that many of those nightmarish tracks are now widened, resurfaced and even tarred, I concocted a programme to top up my adrenalin levels with some hardcore 4x4ing, a serious hike, a bum-battering pony trek and the rush of the world's longest single-drop commercial abseil alongside one of Africa's great waterfalls. We're talking serious fun here.
If you haven't explored Lesotho recently, allow me to recommend it as a tonic for those city blues.
It is scenically spectacular and there's much that is still challenging if you venture off the main routes, nature often dishing up the wildcard and springing last-minutes surprises with torrential rains that can churn up dirt roads and flood low-lying areas, while snow and ice on the high peaks add their own excitements.
Don't you just love the sound of cracking and crunching ice when you drive through frozen streams and pools in the road?
Of course, if you choose the right time of year and stick to Corolla-friendly roads, your experience of Lesotho can be more wild than wild, but that wasn't the idea.
Starting in the KZN Midlands at Nottingham Road, we decided it would be a great idea to fortify ourselves with local brews at "Notties" the oldest continuously-running tavern in the province.
From there we'd head for Sani Top Chalet, reputedly the highest pub in Africa, traversing the country westwards to the Trading Post Guest House in the university town of Roma, then the innocuous sounding Maluti Mountain Road (better known to off-roaders as Jockstrap Pass), Semonkong Lodge for some abseil training, and finally pony trekking at Malealea Lodge.
Lesotho has lost none of its rugged charm, although the ever-improving road network and new tourism initiatives make South Africa's landlocked neighbour visitor-friendly even if you don't own a 4x4.
If you want the softer options, fly into Maseru or arrive by car from the Eastern Free State, taking advantage of good roads as you enter through relaxed border posts.
But I'm a little perverse, and it is the wildness of the Maloti and Drakensberg Mountains, and especially those parts not yet linked by tar roads, that are the main attraction for me.
A scenic two-hour drive takes you from Nottingham Road to the South African border post and the start of the Sani Pass: these days the 8km climb can be managed in an hour by any reasonable 4x4, provided the weather holds.
Our Toyota makes light work of the rocky, rodeo-ride.
Border formalities are a breeze and we soon find ourselves sipping a chilled Maluti lager at Sani Top Chalet - the highest pub in Africa at 2 874m. Like most Lesotho hotels, the accommodation is definitely more rustic than luxurious, but we enjoyed great company, cheerful service and good cooking. Luckily we'd opted for a hot shower on arrival, the plumbing freezing during the night.
If you have the time you can devote a day to hiking to Southern Africa's highest peak, Thabana-Ntlenyana soaring to 3 482m.
Instead we set off towards the historic Trading Post Guest House at Roma that is owned by Ashley and Jennifer Thorn.
Although roads have improved hugely in recent years, the 250km drive still proves an eight-hour undertaking, and I marvel at the determination of early pioneers.
Ashley's grandfather founded the Roma trading store in 1903 and it remains locked in a time warp.
Blanketed Basotho wearing their traditional conical straw hats arrive on donkeys with grain for grinding, while cattle, pigs and chickens roam freely. There's even a "parking lot" for donkeys while their owners are shopping or catching up on the latest gossip.
Ashley believes passionately in the country and its people, organising a half-day outing along the scenic Makhaleng Valley Trail between Roma and Ramabanta, with a side excursion up the challenging Maluti Mountain Road, where we're greeted warmly by local villagers.
At Ramabanta Trading Post Lodge guests are treated to spectacular views in an idyllic setting, and we long for at least one lazy day that has unfortunately not been factored into the itinerary.
Instead we're off, pushing on to Malealea Lodge, which is acclaimed for its hikes, pony treks and authentic African experience.
A shortcut you won't spot in the guidebooks delivers more adventure and we find ourselves bogged down in deep black mud, spending the next hour digging and placing rocks with the help of friendly villagers.
Eventually, with much applause, we're rolling again.
My daughter gets there on a more obvious route without mishap in a regular sedan!
Malealea is a model of community empowerment and an example of what is possible when lodge owners, visitors and local rural people interact in meaningful ways. Rarely have I met as many smiling, friendly locals anywhere.
A highlight is my first experience aboard a traditional Basotho pony and I'm awed by its surefootedness along slippery, rock paths too narrow for any 4x4.
My terror of heights is diminishing with each successive abseil, and predictably the 204-metre rappel at Maletsunyane Falls is my ultimate adrenalin rush.
It first earned its place in the Guinness Book of Records six years ago as the longest single-drop commercial abseil and I become the 736th person to take the leap of faith.
But you have to earn the privilege. The organisers at nearby Semonkong Lodge insist on all participants first braving three training abseils down a 25m cliff.
It's a great confidence-builder and essential to hone the techniques you'll need during a controlled descent of up to 30 minutes.
We are all scared silly to begin with, but within seconds I'm dazzled by the beauty and the vastness of the scene, descending beside a thundering waterfall and being engulfed in spray near the bottom.
It is my 32nd abseil, reminding me yet again that life begins at the end of your comfort zone.
If you go
- Nottingham Road Hotel & Gowrie Farm Golf Lodge. Call +27 (0) 33 266 6151 or cellphone: +27 (0) 82 610 1286
See: www.nottieshotel.co.za
E-mail: [email protected]
- Sani Top Chalet
Call +27 (0) 33 702 1069 or cellphone: +27 (0) 82 715 1131
See: www.sanitopchalet.co.za
E-mail: [email protected]
- Trading Post Guesthouse in Roma and Ramabanta Trading Post Lodge
Call +266 (0) 2234 0202 or cellphone: +27 (0) 82 773 2180
Call +266 (0) 2700 6037 or cellphone: +266 (0) 6202 1021
See: www.placeofsmoke.co.ls
E-mail: [email protected]
- Malealea Lodge (pony trekking)
Call +27 (0) 51 436 6766 or cellphone: +27 (0) 82 552 4215
See: www.malealea.com
E-mail: [email protected]