I first visited Ghana 12 years ago, and recently I had the opportunity to revisit Accra and I was keen to see what changes, if any, had been made.
The first thing that struck me was how strong the country's currency is. Fixed to the US dollar, it makes a visit somewhat expensive for a South African. Soft drinks sell for R15 and beer for about R40!
Accra is an exciting and vibrant African city and one that I spent hours exploring.
Where else in the world can you find a colony of fruit bats in the centre of town? Numbering in the tens of thousands, this colony provides a great photo opportunity for tourists and a food source for the locals. Interestingly enough, although most bat species are nocturnal this colony seems to be awake during the day. At night the entire colony moves out of the city to feed - quite a spectacular sight as each of the mammals is the size of a Jack Russell.
Although there are regular shops most of the roads are lined with informal traders of all descriptions.
I discovered high-quality bespoke beds and lounge suites being manufactured at the roadside, and if I had wanted I could have a coffin made to my own design. (This trend seems to be specific to West Africa, with coffins in the shape of beer bottles and even airplanes.)
I needed a charger for my digital camera and I was able to find this in a tiny shop well off the beaten track. The entire transaction was conducted in sign language and was concluded with big smiles and handshakes all round.
The Centre for National Culture is the main tourist craft market. It is comprised of a variety of small and large outdoor stalls, all joined by claustrophobically small alleyways and an indoor textile area that is unbearably humid. The market is usually the first stop on the tourist tours and it can be a bit overwhelming at first.
It has not grown in the 12 years since my last visit. What has changed is the fact that the traders are so desperate to do business that they will offer you outrageous deals to get your tourist dollar. As many of the stalls sell similar products and the traders are so desperate for business, it is in your interests to shop around. One of the traders I was dealing with was so keen to make a sale that he was prepared to take any currency except our rands.
Be prepared to haggle, as the traders seem to find this an acceptable form of doing business. I am not great at haggling, but it was pointed out that it is almost disrespectful to accept the first price you are offered.
The clamour, heat and tenacity of the traders eventually wore me down and I left without buying anything. I could not wait to get back into the air-conditioned tour bus and find quieter and cooler places to visit. (It is no so much the heat, but the humidity that takes its toll on visitors.)
I discovered a wonderful art gallery on the way back from the market, and although there were several pieces that caught my eye, the prices - most in excess of $2 000 (R18 000) - kept my wallet firmly in my pocket.
Accra is on the coast, but neither the beach nor the water was very inviting. With the exception of certain hotels that keep their beachfront areas clean, the rest of the Accra coastline is littered with slums. These seem to be inhabited by a certain section of the population that still earns a living from fishing out of small canoes. Unfortunately the numbers of these subsistence fishermen are diminishing, as commercial fishing takes its toll.
The fish that are caught are smoked in converted iron barrels and then sold on the side of the road. They seem to be a delicacy but I certainly was not brave enough to try them. I did get stuck into packets of Plantain chips that can be bought at every intersection. These seemed to be the healthy alternative to the crisps that we have here. Although very bitter when raw they taste like sweet potato when cooked and they can be eaten with a meal.
As far as food goes, I saw very few vegetables while I was there. Most meals consisted of either chicken, fish or meat, all of which were served with large helpings of chips. These are French fries and not the slap chips that we have at home. I have to admit that Ghanaians make great chips. However, I seem to remember having the usual trimmings on the burger that I had, so lettuce and tomato do exist.
There seem to be a lot of unfinished buildings in Accra. It is almost as if the building industry only builds to a point and then moves on to the next project.
The Accra University has been building a stadium for the past four years and although the world-class track and field are complete, the stands are derelict and the facility nowhere near completion.
I will never complain about traffic chaos again. The centre of Accra makes our roads look tame. However, the drivers seem to be a lot more patient and don't show the same aggression that South African drivers have come to demonstrate.
There is one way to see an African city and that is to walk through areas that are not infested with tourists.
Four of us went on a David Attenborough-type excursion that got us so lost that we had to use the sun to get us back to our hotel. But during our escapade we discovered the most wonderful shops and locals. We were greeted with smiles wherever we went and we were never harassed. The favourite local greeting seemed to be "You're welcome!", an attitude that we should be promoting in South Africa.
My favourite moment of the trip was finding a group of weavers working on the side of the road. With flying feet and hands their homemade looms turned out the most exquisite multicoloured scarves and shawls. I spent some time with these weavers, who were very proud of the quality and variety of their products.
My most interesting discovery was that most of the shop names have some religious connection. The "Thank God cellphone shop" is the one that I will always remember.
My visit to Accra proved that you don't have to leave the continent to have a memorable experience.
- Both SAA and Ghana Air fly direct to Accra.
Recommended visits:
The Centre for National Culture
Independence Square
The National Art Gallery
The National Theatre