Celebrating 150 years of firewalking at Africa's oldest Hindu temple

Every  year, hundreds of devotees gather to test their faith and courage by walking barefoot over burning embers in the ancient firewalking ceremony at the Umbilo Shree Ambalavaanar Alayam, also known as the Cato Manor Second River Temple. 

Nestled on a hill amongst lush vegetation in Cato Manor, this sacred site is home to Africa’s oldest Hindu temple and the birthplace of firewalking in South Africa.

It was once the centre of a bustling community until apartheid forced them away and now devotees are scattered but many travel from as far as Phoenix and Shallcross to attend the temple’s various programmes. 

This year the temple celebrates its 150th anniversary, and major renovations have just been completed ensuring the preservation of its rich history and spiritual significance. 

Declared a national monument in 1980, the temple stands as a testament to the enduring power of faith and tradition.

Kamlanathan Naicker, the temple's treasurer, said that the renovations which included tiling, painting and roofing, were long overdue. 

“Well, the temple was in dire need of renovation because we haven't really done any major renovations over the years. We used to do the maintenance renovations but not anything major and I think it came out quite well.” 

Despite being a heritage site, the temple was not funded by the government and the work was only made possible through generous donations. 

Over the years this place of worship became known as “the temple that refused to die” because of the many challenges it faced.  

Naicker said that initially it was an iron and wood structure on the banks of the Umbilo River that was flooded several times, but it survived. 

“The first temple was completely replaced after the floods. The second temple that they built was actually built with brickss. Because the land there was very unstable because of the river, this temple started to sink. At the same time, the railways had plans to build a southern freeway so they expropriated the land to build the freeway. They tried dynamite, they tried to bulldoze it. Everything failed. Part of the temple still exists under the freeway,” he said. 

The temple was relocated to the current complex which is flanked by the Golden Gate school on the right and Inkosi Albert Luthuli Central Hospital on the left. 

The complex is home to three temples; the Lord Shiva temple which is known as Ambalavaanar, the second in honour of the “mother” is known as Sri Draupadi Alayam and the third is the Phutu (Phutuvan) Temple. 

Resident temple priest, Guru Dhanasargren Govender said the temple contained many unique objects. On the roof of the temple there are murthis of many Hindu gods and goddesses. “The external architecture was crafted by artisans from India, and they were made on site. The doors that you see here are all from the original temple, so they tried to keep as many of the artifacts, and all the artifacts here are not replaceable.” 

According to Guru Govender, Umbilo Shree Ambalavaanar Alayam is also known as the “mother” temple because it was the first to start the firewalking tradition in Durban which drew large numbers of devotees every year. 

He said Cato Manor used to be a “bustling Indian area” and the temple played a central role in the lives of many people. However, once the community was forced to move, the area became like a ghost town, but there is still a steady number of devotees that attend regularly. Today the temple is a well known tourist attraction and people come from as far afield as Germany to see it. 

“As a guru, I'm very proud that most of the people that come here are tourists. Sadly South Africa does not promote this temple and our tourism department doesn't recognise this, although it is a national monument. They haven't even got a sign put up to say that this is a tourist monument. But when visitors come from Russia, Germany or France they come with their brochures…and in their brochures it is a must-see attraction.” 

He said in 2010 the temple applied and was successfully recognised as a non-profit organisation as well as a public benefit organisation. As part of its social responsibility programme, it also assists many other organisations, and even those of other religions, throughout the year. While there are many popular festivals, like Kavady and Maha Shivaratri which draw large numbers to the temple, it is the Shree Draupadi Firewalking Festival which takes place over several days that is the highlight for many people. This festival is a tradition found mainly in south India.

Last year the youngest firewalker was a 16 year old girl who happens to be in matric this year. 

Krishna Reddy the chairman of the temple is known as the “firebreaker”, the first one to walk across the coals every year. He has been doing it for at least 25 years and says it's a passion. 

“There is nothing that goes through your mind. You just focus, it's the best feeling in the world.” 

He says the preparation in the run up to the festival is vital. During the festival, the murti of Draupadiammen (goddess) is placed at the fire pit and participants walk towards it.

“It takes a lot of fasting and meditation and self-control before the festival. So, the mother (Draupadiammen) is placed there and all you do is look at her. She tells you, ‘come’ and you just walk across. You do feel it, but it's not very bad. I never got scalded in all the years.”

Shri Draupadiammen is a revered goddess as well as a key figure in the Mahabharata, a sacred Hindu text. Through firewalking devotees mirror her strength and courage. 

Guru Govender says they are working hard to ensure that the religious traditions are kept alive for another 150 years. One of the ways in which they are doing this is through their various initiatives especially for women and youth. While finances are a problem and they would like the government to assist them, it won't stop the important work that they do, he said.  

This year’s Shree Draupadi Firewalking Festival takes place in April.