When it comes to effectively moisturizing your dried-out body and face, you might be overlooking one important step: figuring out whether you’re dealing with dry skin versus dehydrated skin. They may sound like the same problem, but there are actually subtle differences—and mistaking one for the other could be the reason why you’re not seeing the relief you hoped for.

To start with their similarities, both dryness and dehydration share a ton of symptoms in common, including tightness, itchiness, and flaking. Technically, though, the biggest distinction comes down to their specific causes, Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, tells SELF. “Naturally dry skin has less active oil glands and therefore lower sebum production, leading to an ongoing need for moisture,” Dr. Garshick explains. “Whereas dehydrated skin can still produce oil—it’s really about lacking water.”

Still confused about the distinction? You’re not alone—and to complicate things further, Dr. Garshick says it’s possible to have both, given that the lack of oils can make it harder for your body to retain water and stay hydrated. “But knowing the difference is important for choosing the right skin care treatments,” she explains. Here are a few ways to tell them apart.

1. Dry skin is more chronic, while dehydration is temporary.

If your skin is always parched no matter the season, chances are you’re dealing with dry skin. Like oily or sensitive skin, “dry skin is a skin type,” Carmen Castilla, MD, board-certified dermatologist at the New York Dermatology Group and clinical instructor at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, tells SELF. More specifically, it happens when your skin naturally doesn’t produce enough oil or lacks key lipids (as seen in more severe conditions like eczema)—both of which are essential for maintaining a strong moisture barrier,” Dr. Castilla says—the skin’s protective outer layer that keeps irritants out and hydration in.

For the most part, whether or not you have dry skin often comes down to genetics. “Your oil glands just don’t produce a significant amount of oil, and that’s not necessarily reversible,” Dr. Castilla says. However, hormonal changes (during menopause, say, or simply aging) as well as chronic conditions (like eczema) also play a role.

Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, isn’t something you’re born with. Rather, it’s an acute condition that occurs when your skin loses water. This could be due to cold, dry weather, sweating, not drinking enough water, or overusing strong actives (like exfoliating acids and retinol, which can potentially weaken your barrier). All of these factors can worsen dryness too, but the point is that dehydration really isn’t chronic—it’s largely influenced by external stuff.

2. Dehydrated skin can feel super tight yet still look greasy.

Even if your skin feels thirsty and stiff, it might look shiny in areas like your T-zone if dehydration is the issue, Dr. Garshick says. Since dehydration isn’t tied to your skin type, anyone, even those with oily or combination ones, can experience water loss. Some experts believe your body compensates for the missing hydration by producing excess oil in response—though research on this connection is still evolving.

But the reason that your oily skin still feels tight when it’s dehydrated? “Oil can help prevent further water loss, but it doesn’t add hydration,” Dr. Garshick explains. That’s why dry skin tends to appear rough, cracked, and flaky; meanwhile, dehydrated skin has that parched, chapped sensation you’d normally associate with dryness—plus an unexpected sheen.

3. Dry skin will still be plump and elastic.

Gently pinch the skin on the back of your hand, hold it for three seconds, then let go. Normally, “it should immediately snap back to its original position, even if you have dry skin,” Dr. Castilla says. However, if that “bounce back” effect is noticeably slower, it could be a more general indication that you’re dehydrated—which, as SELF previously reported, could suggest the skin on your face is lacking moisture too.

That’s because water, not sebum, is what gives skin its elasticity and plumpness, according to Dr. Castilla. Whereas “oil is a lubricant that affects texture”—meaning it helps prevent roughness and flakiness, but it won’t do much for elasticity. As a word of caution, though, both derms caveat that the pinch test is most useful for spotting moderate to severe dehydration. (For milder cases, it’s more helpful to check the other signs covered in this article.)

4. Dehydrated skin can make fine lines more noticeable.

According to Dr. Castilla another thing that can happen when your skin loses elasticity is that fine lines (particularly around the eyes) become more defined. Without the plumpness and natural volume that water provides, the skin can appear thinner, she explains, making those creases pop a little more than usual.

The good news, though, is that these dehydration-related lines (unlike deeper wrinkles from aging) should go away once you replenish moisture, whether by drinking more water, say, or using the right topical products, Dr. Castilla says. Speaking of which…

5. Dehydrated skin will benefit from water-attracting ingredients, while dry skin needs thick ones.

For the most part, plenty of moisturizers and serums out there can address both concerns (more on that later). However, Dr. Garshick points out that certain ingredients work better for dry skin versus dehydrated skin. For instance, “treating dehydrated skin with heavy, oil-based products may not be as effective,” she says. It’s not that they’ll make things worse; it’s just that for dehydration specifically, water retention should be the goal—so it makes more sense to lean on water-attracting ingredients (a.k.a. humectants) such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin.

For dry skin, though, those lightweight formulas usually aren’t enough to replenish lost oils. “Hydration is helpful, but sealing moisture in is key for dryness,” Dr. Garshick adds. In this case, you’d want thicker formulas containing emollients (which soften and smooth) and occlusives (to lock in moisture). Ingredients to look out for include ceramides, shea butter, and squalane.

If you happen to be cursed with the double whammy of dryness and dehydration (or just can’t tell which one’s causing you trouble), layering all three—humectants, emollients, and occlusives—can work in tandem to pull in water and lock in oils.

No matter what’s behind that tight, chapped feeling, though, “it’s important to cut back on harsh actives and focus on being gentle with your skin,” Dr. Castilla says. After all, there’s no point in loading up on the best moisturizers if you’re sabotaging your efforts with potentially stripping formulas.

Original article appeared on SELF

1. Dry skin is more chronic, while dehydration is temporary.

2. Dehydrated skin can feel super tight yet still look greasy.

3. Dry skin will still be plump and elastic.

4. Dehydrated skin can make fine lines more noticeable.

5. Dehydrated skin will benefit from water-attracting ingredients, while dry skin needs thick ones.

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