Everything clicks at great new grillhouse

Barnaby’s Grillhouse

Where: 10 Mackeurtan Ave, Durban North

Open: Daily 11.30am to 10pm

Call: 031 001 9112

Our little lunch club met again and had one of our better Sunday lunches this year. The Food Writer had noted the opening of Barnaby’s Grillroom that week. It’s nestled on Mackeurtan Ave where Julio’s used to be. The Fat Frog Lady and I jumped on board.

And what a difference a good renovation makes. It no longer feels cramped in some dingy corner. It was light with a rebuilt open deck under an awning like roof, smart finishings and wicker lighting and plenty of light stone edges. The hand rails may not have been put in yet on the stairs, nor the outside windows to protect against inclement weather, but the restaurant was very much open and serving. And buzzing too. On a beautiful day it was just lovely to sit out, glass of chardonnay in hand.

Barnaby’s is the latest offering from the team that owns Grimaldi’s and Jack Salmon. We’re soon greeted by the familiar face of Duncan Sutherland who tells us about their journey and the makeover. And insists we try his pick of the starters.

We’re soon munching into cheesy stuffed mushrooms in a nice crisp panko crumb with a spicy dipping mayo (R85), and deep-fried olives stuffed with ricotta (R85). The pork belly (R95) is lovely, cooked with garlic and dijon, topped with apple and a rich orange, honey and cinnamon glaze. The Fat Frog Lady and I soon polished it off. But the real surprise was the corn ribs (R69) drizzled in garlic butter and coated in chives. I am actually a fan of sweet corn and think it doesn’t appear on menus often enough. But this was such a lovely way of serving it. Finger sized slivers cut with a bit of the cob which you can nibble away at delicately. And no they didn’t look like worms as the Food Writer suggested. Delicious.

Other options may have included peri-peri chicken livers or marrow bones. There’s halloumi, carpaccio, snails, calamari and cheesy prawns. There’s also beef trinchado. Platters of buffalo wings, skinny lamb chops or pork ribs can also be ordered to share.

When it comes to the grill there’s a selection of aged beef from rump, sirloin, fillet and ribeye. Meats on the bone include sirloin, fillet, T-bone and tomahawks. There’s also lamb chops. I look no further than the 300g rump (R219). There’s a 500g cut as well. It came a perfect medium rare with a nice cap of crisped fat and starting to swim in a deliciously melting cafe de Paris butter. I always like my steak with chips which are hand cut and good. Sutherland brought their pepper sauce along to try - another winner. Spoilt for choice.

Sauces can include mushrooms and thyme, bearnaise, mustard, blue cheese, chimichurri, bone marrow and garlic. There’s also a number of specialty steaks, rolled in pepper corns, or flamed in cointreau. 

The Fat Frog lady went for the half, deboned peri-peri-chicken (R169) and this was another winner. Not overly hot but with lovely flavour and the charcoal grilling coming through. (The leftovers made a superb chicken mayo sandwich for lunch the next day.) The Food Writer enjoyed a good piece of line fish (R295) in a simple lemon butter sauce topped with four grilled prawns. She was in heaven.

Other seafood options include kingklip, calamari or a simple plate of those prawns. There are some burger options too, and a prego.

Stuffed to the gills and already with mounting takeaway containers, Sutherland insisted we try his pick of desserts. I was very happy with a silky smooth creme brulee (R69) and enjoyed the baked cheesecake (R75) although after all that food it was going to be on the heavy side. And you can’t go wrong with malva pudding with both custard and ice-cream (R72). But perhaps the highlight was Barnaby's Pedro (R79) with pistachio nuts, matcha and kahlua. Now the Food Writer rarely puts alcohol to her lips, but certainly clung onto this one.

Food: 4

Service: 4

Ambience: 4

The Bill: With only the mains charged the bill with a super generous tip for excellent service came to R1000