Lifestyle

A little rock n roll in eMdloti

Frank Chemaly|Published

Seared salmonwith an almond crust on sweet potato puree with soy beurre blanc

Image: Ingrid Shevlin

Rockpool Restaurant

Where:1 South Beach Rd, eMdloti

Open: Monday to Saturday 11.30am to 9pm, Sunday 11.30am to 6pm.

Call: 031 568 2286

Food writer Ingrid Shevlin and I went for lunch this week at an old favourite that’s been completely relaunched. So Mundo Vida is now called Rockpool and the whole vibe is so much more relaxed. The small inside restaurant (which was never used) is now a cocktail bar. The rest offers floor to ceiling views of the ocean beyond. 

Just while we were lunching at least two or three couples came straight off the beach for a glass of wine and a simple plate of calamari. One even had a large dog in tow. 

Rooibos panna cotta with honey, chocolate and nut crumble and preserved orange.

Image: Ingrid Shevlin

While chef Morne Fourie and front of house Andre Schubert are still at the helm, they feel Rockpool gives their customers a chance to relax a little - and enjoy the holiday vibe. They’ve added a little rock and roll to the equation.

The menu too has become lighter and more diversified with many more Asian specialities appearing, yet they have kept the old favourites and staples from Don Wilkinson's time.

There’s an impressive list of starters which when combined with a selection of Asian tapas and salads gives an array of options - many would be perfect for a light summer’s lunch.

There’s fish cakes and beef croquettes, and steak tartare with a marrow bone. Naturally calamari, prawns, mussels and oysters feature. There’s duck spring rolls and crispy yakitori chicken wings. I’d had their pork belly in dragon sauce with cucumber and pea shoots on a recent visit and enjoyed it. That time the Poet had opted for a Vietnamese rice roll which I found bland, but the tataki buns with either beef, seared tuna or salmon sound delicious. 

On my next trip I’d like to try their beach garden salad - just because I love that crispy spinach with the fiery chilli dressing.

A Durban mutton curry and rice.

Image: Ingrid Shevlin

I went for the ceviche (R95), diced linefish with lime, citrus, chilli, cilantro, red onion and avo (which also had the addition of red peppers which it didn’t need) but I enjoyed the dish. 

Ingrid instead felt like sushi. As the old Mundo Vida sushi was always part of the menu, but one rarely went in that direction. Now with its more laid back vibe and a selection of platters, I suspect it will become a more prominent part of the offerings. All major sushi options are there as are a selection of sushi platters to share. 

We shared a plate of prawn avalanche (R140 for 8) and salmon bombs (R195 for 8) which came topped with a little ring of fresh chilli - what a difference that makes. A little wave of heat gently exploding. The sushi was fresh and the ingredients generous, which is exactly what one expects. Ingrid and I reminisce over the pink and green sushi abominations we ordered from one ill fated and ill conceived establishment in Florida Road. But here, the sushi got the thumbs up.

Sushi from their speciality selection. A salmon dragon roll front and Prawn avalanche, back

Image: Ingrid Shevlin

Light meals take in tacos, and burgers - beef and chicken - and bao buns. There’s a small selection of pastas including a traditional carbonara - and poke bowls.

When it comes to the grill seafood certainly shines here. From a humble beer battered hake and chips to whole baked line fish. I had really enjoyed this on my last visit (if you’re prepared to deal with the bones). It came with a delicious lemon, caper and anchovy sauce. I was even tempted to go there again, but thought I should try something new. Linefish, seared tuna, prawns, langoustines and seafood platters are all available..

Ingrid wanted the Norwegian salmon (R345) and what a beautiful piece of fish it was. Crusted with a crisp almond crumb, it was perfectly cooked and meltingly succulent. It went with a lovely soya beurre blanc. She changed the broccoli in the dish for bok choy, which I think added to it. She also loved the sweet potato mash: “Silky,” she said. I would have asked for regular mash.

Linefish ceviche.

Image: Ingrid Shevlin

On the meat side there’s a full range of steaks and sauces, and dishes like Spatchcock peri-peri chicken or rack of lamb.

I instead went for the Durban mutton curry (R200). Well maybe not quite a Durban curry in terms of heat, but certainly in its wonderful depth of flavour. Mild but delicious. I suspect even the Poet would approve. It came with rice (a papadum would have been nice) and pickled carrots and raita. I suggested they think of my favourite sambal with a mutton curry - lime pickle.

Overly well fed, we still looked at the dessert menu. Besides the vanilla creme brulee, everything looked a little on the heavy side. Lime drizzle cake, New York Cheesecake, and chocolate brownies. We shared a rooibos and vanilla panna cotta (R95) with star anise infused honey, chocolate and almond crumb and candied orange. What a lovely dessert. The panna cotta was silky and cool with the perfect wobble. While the rooibos didn’t really come through (And I think Ingrid was relieved it didn’t) who could not help falling in love with milk and honey.

Food: 4

Service: 3 ½

Ambience: 4

The Bill: R1218 for two