Ambrosia from Mimosa

Mimosa

Where: Sage Centre, 1 Old Fort Road, Salt Rock

Open: Daily 7.30am to 4pm, Friday to 8pm

Call: 032 061 0336

Not being big on cocktails, I had never really registered what a mimosa actually consisted of, assuming it to be some kind of decidedly pink creation with a sugar coated rim. It sounds sort of  American deep South, something cold and refreshing for the ladies to sip on a sweltering day on the verandah of the homestead, along with mint julep and other such offerings.

On one such day in Salt Rock I was more than happy to have a good old fashioned G ‘n T. It did the same trick. But then I Googled. It’s basically Champaign and orange juice. Oh yes I could relate to that. 

And at Mimosa, they sure do serve mimosas. And they’re on special for the breakfast run. That’s the good ladies of Salt Rock who enjoy a relaxing Benny or avo on toast after dropping the kids at school.

Food writer Ingrid Shevlin and I have been meaning to come out here for sometime, ever since restauranter Paul Sheppard - of Ray’s Kitchen and Marco Paulo fame - took over Sage restaurant over a year ago. I happened to be in Ballito shortly after it opened and enjoyed an excellent plate of mussels. I would be back for a proper review. Sadly one can’t always get everywhere.

We found a wonderful spot in the shade of two grand old trees. There was a gentle breeze. The whole setting gave that mimosa feel of cool and tranquil.

The menu too is appropriately light, suitable for a decent lunch or a quick snack, and yet there’s much of interest.

Starters might include panko and sesame crumber prawn tails, or crispy calamari. There’s pork belly lollipops, Italian heeded meatballs and spinach and feta pies. There’s a seafood antipasto platter and a mimosa platter that takes in olives and dips and falafels.

We opt to try three starters. The panko crumb asparagus with truffle creme fraiche (R129) was enjoyable, although personally I think the asparagus would be better uncrumbed. The slow roasted eisbein croquette with a sweet mustard sauce (R118) was delicious and incredibly rich. I kept two of the three croquettes for lunch the next day. They also came with proper onion rings, just dredged in flour and cooked to a golden crisp. None of this horrible batter stuff.

We also really enjoyed the pistachio and parmesan aranchini, served in a paprika and tomato cream with grilled artichokes (R139). I usually avoid what I call “rice balls” because so often they a) have little flavour, and b) they’re usually stodgy with the rice going all glue-like. Not these. Soft creamy risotto and plenty of flavour from both the aranchini and that lovely tomato sauce.

There are a number of light meal options including those mussels in cream, white wine and herbs that I had so enjoyed. The couple at the next table who were joined by a very well behaved Swiss shepherd, raved about the haddock fishcakes with crispy capers and a mini Caesar salad. Sounds good actually. There’s wood roasted baby chicken, and pork belly. A steak sandwich sounds a cut above average, as does steak au poivre with crispy French fries and a proper peppercorn sauce - their description. 

Ingrid opted for something decidedly retro, and avocado Ritz salad (R195) with pink mimosa dressing and cos lettuce. It was everything she wanted it to be. Salads might include a nicoise crunch salad with fresh tuna and a burrata salad with ripe tomatoes and basil pesto.

Pizzas too feature, as do pastas. I was tempted by the spaghetti cartoccio with mussels, calamari and prawns, cooked in a bag with herbs and white wine, but instead opted for the seafood risotto (R295), a lovely creamy risotto with plenty of seafood. 

Despite the fact that we had bags of food going home, we shared a dessert. We avoided the list of freshly baked cakes - too heavy even though they certainly looked good - A home baker brought in a whole array while we were eating. We settled on a simple creme brulee which was lovely - again everything this dessert should be, rich, silky smooth and creamy with a decidedly deep burnt sugar crack. 

I could have quite happily sat here for a few more hours with a couple of mimosas, but sadly we had to make the long trip home.

Food: 4

Service: 4

Ambience: 4

The Bill: R1 089 for two