Bacon wrapped chicken wings in a hot chilli and honey butter.
Image: Frank Chemaly
Where: Umhlanga Plaza, 4 Lagoon Drive, Umhlanga
Open: Monday to Thursday noon to 11pm, Friday to Sunday noon to 1am
Call: 082 708 0561
Food writer Ingrid Shevlin calls. “Would I like to join her at a new rhythm and blues cafe that’s opened in Umhlanga?”
I shudder.
Let’s say it’s probably my least favourite musical genre. I tell her I’m up for an adventure.
And so we arrive at The Studio, a stylish new venue next to the Lord Prawn. On the one side is a bar and then a large deck has windows that open onto the pavement. Inside is swish, the deck area casual and comfortable and light. To the one side is a second shop that is still being fitted out. We’re told this will be the steakhouse section of the operation that’s still finished. Probably for more relaxed evening dining.
Macaroni cheese for two.
Image: Frank Chemaly
There’s little sign of a stage, although I assume with its name the Studio will be hosting live performances. Today fortunately the RnB component is suitably wallpaper, a beige twang of guitars in the background.
We peruse the menu which leans heavily on the cuisine of the US south, a culinary genre that too raises red flags. The only thing missing is a classic gumbo, which I would have tried. At least we’re a couple of steps up from Tex Mex.
It takes in Bunzzz which is basically burgers - beef or chicken - including a Korean inspired crispy chicken burger smothered in gochujang sauce. Then there’s Feathers and Fly - a variety of ways with chicken wings, mainly Southern, Buffalo or barbecue. Crust takes in a few pizzas including a hot pepperoni, hot Nashville and a misspelt Margherita, while Steak’s (sic) and Shrimps offer some grill options. Fire fries celebrate a variety of loaded fries options including dumpster fries slathered in their atomic cheese sauce, pulled shortrib, fried jalapeno bits and crispy onions. Tacos and Dogs complete the picture. Plus there were sides.
Cajun lamb chops with skinny fires and secret gravy
Image: Frank Chemaly
With no starters as such, we opted for the honey butter chicken wings (R115 for six) which were wrapped in bacon, crumbed and basted in a honey butter sauce with chilli flakes and house ranch dressing. Nice crisp chicken wings and I liked that spicy yet sweet butter on them. Only for me the bacon overpowered everything, and would be better left out altogether. For me, the menu generally had one too many things on most dishes.
We also tried a side of the Super Cheese - a mac and cheese bathed in what I presume is their atomic cheese sauce (R95). This was of course American cheese, so lovers of that sweet milk tang will really enjoy this. It made the whole dish orange. But it was a competent mac and cheese. Plenty of cheese flavour, and the pasta neither set like glue - my worst - or soggy. It was enjoyable although the real bite of mature cheddar would be my choice.
A charred salad with tomatoes and crispy bacon
Image: Frank Chemaly
I settled on the Porker for mains, a roll filled with pulled pork, crispy bacon, jalapenos, crispy onions and more of that cheese sauce, only to be told they were out of pulled pork - it was still slow cooking apparently. I could have it with lamb though. The thought of lamb and cheese sauce somehow didn’t do the trick. Instead I had their cajun lamb chops (R280) topped with skinny fries and their secret gravy. The chops were good and cooked a perfect medium rare, and the cajun spicing enhanced them. I like skinny fries, the only thing is there weren’t enough of them to mop up all those lovely juices. Perhaps a breadroll will work.
Ingrid decided on the Cajun prawns with potato crisps and pineapple salsa. The seafood options here are limited. Only one prawn dish, one with calamari and no fish. The waiter soon returned to the table to say they were out of prawns. Instead she opted for a charred salad with bacon (R85). It sounds bizarre, but it was basically a head of Romaine lettuce cut in half and simply seared for seconds on the grill to give it some colour. It was still nice and crisp. It was served with a selection of tomatoes and bacon bits, and parmesan gratings with a ranch dressing. It was enjoyable.
Only open for two weeks, I suspect the kitchen here is still very much finding its feet and menus will evolve with time. But for a simple southern inspired meal, it shows some good cooking.
Strangely there was no dessert menu, and they’re still waiting for the installation of the coffee machine. I suggested to Ingrid we pop into the ice-cream parlour in the pearls on our way to the car park but she had eaten enough.
Food: 3
Service: 2 ½
Ambience: 3
The Bill: R757, including an automatic 10% gratuity.