Despite his international accolades and high-level training, chef Warren Mendes insists he is essentially the same person who left as a teenager, just with a much larger appetite for the diversity of his homeland.
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The scent of woodsmoke drifting from a braai is more than just a cooking method for chef Warren Mendes; it is the aroma that signals that he is finally home.
After years of honing his craft in the elite kitchens of London, Paris and Sydney, the South African-born chef and culinary storyteller has returned to his roots for the brand-new show, "Food Trail: South Africa", on Food Network Africa (DStv channel 175).
For Mendes, this 10-episode journey is a "full-circle" homecoming to the flavours and traditions that shaped his earliest memories.
Reflecting on the moment he truly felt he had arrived in South Africa, Mendes noted: "Smoke, from the braai."
"It seems at any time during the day someone is braaiing, and in South Africa it’s a real braai (no gas barbeques) with wood, coal and smoke," he added.
Raised in a family where cooking was a shared language before training at Le Cordon Bleu, Mendes brings a sophisticated technical background to the show, though he insists he is "the same guy, just hungrier."
"Every time I learn more about the cuisine and discover new spots around the country, I want to find out more. No matter how much time I spend eating or cooking, there are new flavour combinations or recipes I come across."
He views his international training as the building blocks of flavour used to understand and celebrate South African dishes while adding his own professional flair.
"I am lucky enough to travel to all corners of the country, and my appetite for the cuisine is only growing stronger, because it is honestly so diverse.
"My training overseas gave me great building blocks of flavour, and I take those to understand South African dishes and turn them into my own versions.
"I have incredible respect for the classics, and love seeing how even still, each family and kitchen do things slightly differently," he said.
Across the season, viewers will see him balance respect for sacred traditions with creative ignition. "I would never try to re-invent or replace any of the classics I love," he explained.
This approach led to "chaka-lekker", a warm breakfast version of the iconic chakalaka featuring bacon and smoked chilli.
"You don’t need to delete the original, but it is very fun and yum to take that as a base and put your spin on it," Mendes noted.
The show captures the immense breadth of the country's culinary landscape, from the spice-laden kitchens of Bo-Kaap and mussel foraging on the Cape Coast to Pinotage tastings in the Winelands and sunset potjies in the Kalahari.
Chef Warren Mendes views his global education as the building blocks of flavour used to understand and celebrate South African dishes while adding his own professional flair.
Image: Supplied.
Mendes describes the experience as a reminder of the country's diversity, noting that "one day you’re cooking fish on a cliff overlooking the ocean, the next you’re learning Zulu recipes in a rural village."
Throughout these travels, the focus remains firmly on the human element.
"I always maintain that this show is certainly not about me; it's about the faces and places behind the food of South Africa. Without meeting incredible chefs, cooks, producers and everyday South Africans, the show would not be what it is.
"I take inspiration from those around me, and they help me to cook the dishes I create."
Chefs Warren Mendes and Siba Mtongana.
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One such story is a high-profile stop in Cape Town with fellow Food Network star and renowned chef, Siba Mtongana.
Mendes described Mtongana as one of the champions of South African food, sharing that her oxtail recipe is the best he has ever tasted.
"She has the most incredible demeanour, and you can tell she has true passion for her country and traditions. She is down to earth, and the whole crew talked about how lovely it was to have her on set, and that is the true test, passing with the crew!
"I can also comfortably say that many of her dishes, especially her oxtail recipe, are the best I have ever tasted!"
The production also highlights the unpredictability of the trail. While filming in Pretoria, a sudden downpour ruined a batch of almost-cooked koeksisters on camera, a moment that Mendes says proves the "show must go on".
"One thing we can't hide from is the weather. The heavens opened without warning and ruined a whole batch of almost-cooked koeksisters. We cleaned up and started again, and it is all on camera! The show must go on!"
Beyond the famous faces and locations, Mendes is also on a mission to showcase indigenous ingredients like Spekboom.
"The edible succulent thrives in South Africa and can be used across so many dishes, raw and cooked. Its slightly sour flavour and fresh salty crunch lend themselves brilliantly to salads and even chutneys. And, with a name that means 'bacon tree', who wouldn’t love that?"
While Warren Mendes serves as the guide through this ten-episode journey, he is adamant that the spotlight belongs to the faces and places behind the food.
Image: Supplied.
To bring the journey into local kitchens, the companion cookbook "Food Trail South Africa" is available nationwide, featuring recipes seen on screen, from braai mielies and Durban-style bunny chow to his signature chocolate milk tart and his mother’s beef stroganoff.
Mendes’s family memories are baked into the pages, including the responsibility he felt as a child, "having to balance a freshly baked chocolate chiffon cake" on his lap in the car".
"My mom's beef stroganoff has to be one of my all-time favourites, and although it's an international classic, it's in my South African book too, because it formed part of our culture growing up and of course, my mom's is the best (haha)."
Ultimately, Mendes hopes the show empowers viewers to celebrate their identity through food, that is, as he describes it in three words: "Generous. Diverse. Comforting."
• "Food Trail: South Africa" premieres on Sunday, April 26, on Food Network Africa (DStv channel 175).