South African wines are alive and well… actually very well
Chardonnay is the most widely planted white wine grape varietal in the world.
Image: File picture: Krisztina Papp / Pexels
When it comes to wine, we all have our particular favourites. Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin, Pinotage, the list goes on. And everyone is entitled to their choice, even to these sweet reds that many of us had happily discarded in our student days. What is important is that you enjoy whichever wine you prefer.
I have two favourites, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Imagine my joy then, at attending the Wine Concepts 2025 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Celebration, at Moyo in Kirstenbosch, on the evening of September 18.
With 45 of our top wineries, representing over 100 flagship wines, the term “kid in a candy shop“ seemed to pale in comparison to the opportunity I experienced!
At first glance, what immediately impressed was the encouraging balance between the established names in both the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir fields, alongside some newer estates that are attracting attention.
Armed with the conveniently small booklet, listing every estate, varietal, and price, I began my journey into what for me was wine heaven.
For as much variety as there was in the wines, this was complemented by the cross-section of those attending. From those fundies who, to many, might take their wine appreciation to the extreme, to those who were there to enjoy the opportunity for themselves, rather than to expound their expertise to us, perhaps lesser mortals. Overall, the atmosphere was extremely convivial, and I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to compare tasting notes with other attendees.
With 100 wines to choose from, I felt it was important at the outset to create a short list of selected estates from which to taste.
Randomly trying to partake in as many tastings as possible would definitely have affected my ability to leave still standing upright, as well as certainly blurring the taste buds early in the evening. Obviously, as with any tasting, the idea is to sip rather than to swallow every taster one is given. But this can still add up to a fair amount of wine over a few hours of tasting, thus care needs to be taken in carefully managing one’s consumption.
The very pleasant selection of snacks helped to fill the gap between one tasting and the next. Small bowls of mixed seafoods, warm lamb and couscous and skewered game kebabs certainly were a worthy compliment to the wines on show
And so, to the wines….
As I mentioned, there was a good balance between the established names and the newer kids on the block.
Paul Cluver, Oak Valley, De Grendel, plus Yardstick and Fledge and Co, to name a few. With a high proportion of our top Chardonnays and Pinots coming from Elgin and the Hemel and Aarde Valley, it was no surprise to see those regions well represented.
Reflecting on the Chardonnays which I tried, I was thrilled to find that we have definitely moved on from the uncertain times when many of our Chardonnays were the deep gold in colour and tasted more like the wood than the grape.
My experience at the event was of products that foremostly celebrated the grape, as well as being complemented by the time either spent in oak, or otherwise. Vanilla, butter, and toast were all still present, but in finely balanced quantities that left the palate singing and the lips smiling. Never cloying, always uplifting, whilst still maintaining the fullness and identity that only Chardonnay can bring.
As for the Pinot Noirs, these too had me having to show resolve and restraint to not overindulge, such was the quality of the products. It is known that Pinot Noir is not a forgiving grape, and when they first entered the market, South African Pinots seemed to fall into two categories: wonderful and not! Thankfully that has changed in the main, although there are the occasional inexpensive Pinot Noirs that do struggle to present any discernible taste and flavour.
Here I encountered many wines with the more traditional Pinot indicators: bright red fruit and earthy notes, whilst retaining the silky tannins and lingering finish.
Excitingly, there were also a few that had far more complexity than what I have been used to: with a more upfront attack on the palate, and a boldness that surprised without detracting from the finesse we have come to expect from quality South African Pinot Noirs.
From opinions shared and comments overheard, we can be undeniably proud of the superb quality being our producers of these two esteemed wines are creating, and, if they act as an indicator of the overall South African wine industry, all I can say is … magnifique!
PS, if I am allowed to give my humble opinion… my favourite Chardonnay on show - Cape Chamonix Reserve Chardonnay 2022. Favourite Pinot Noir – Shannon RocknRolla Pinot Noir 2023 (which will be ultra-great in a few years).