A bold look from Fundadzi by Craig Jacobs which features elements of chaotic layering in a distinctive way.
Image: Eunice Driver Photography
Mzansi’s fashion community converged in Johannesburg last week to witness the reveal of the South African Fashion Week 2026 Spring/Summer (SS26) collections.
From March 22 to March 25, some of the nation’s biggest designers - including Gert-Johan Coetzee, Ephymol, Black Coffee, Naked Ape and Craig Jacobs - took to the runway to showcase bold, forward-thinking collections that reflected the evolving identity of South African fashion, blending innovation, craftsmanship and cultural storytelling on one of the industry’s most influential stages.
After a brief hiatus, SAFW returned with renewed energy and purpose in a comeback that reinforced its commitment to spotlighting South African design. The pause, which allowed for a period of reflection and recalibration within the industry, ultimately set the stage for a more intentional and elevated showcase.
A sequined pink blazer with patching pants from Zamaswazi featured elements of '80s maximalism.
Image: Eunice Driver Photography
Power shoulders, bold primary colours and dramatic accessories made a strong return, with ’80s maximalism emerging as a standout SAFW SS26 trend defined by excess, drama and unapologetic self-expression. Naked Ape translated the mood into vibrant looks featuring bold splashes of red, yellow and green, while also infusing both menswear and womenswear with graphic detailing.
Zamaswazi leaned into a full pink vision on the runway, presenting a menswear collection featuring sequins, satin and puffed sleeves. Emilia D incorporated sunflower motifs, deep maroon and orange tones and playful prints, while House of Ole referenced ’80s maximalism more subtly, adding a bright yellow coat to a tailored black menswear suit.
In a broader shift toward expressive, rule-breaking fashion that celebrates individuality over convention, chaotic layering emerged as a defining thread on the SAFW SS26 runway.
Designers embraced an artful clash of textures, silhouettes and unexpected pairings. House of Ole took a more structured approach, layering coats and waistcoats over tailored suits and elegant womenswear. Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs opted for leather and sheer combinations, juxtaposing structure and softness in a striking contrast, while On Duty Jeans applied the trend to streetwear-inspired looks.
Elsewhere, Something Good Design highlighted layering through scarves and sweaters, Sinchui delivered a masterclass in menswear layering, Ephymol experimented with mixed textures and fabrics, and Anunes used on-trend maroon and grey tones across layered menswear silhouettes.
A look from Black Coffee which features a bubble and puff silhoutte.
Image: Eunice Driver Photography/Supplied
Puff and bubble silhouettes brought volume and playfulness to the SAFW SS26 runway, sculpting the body into soft, rounded forms. Helon Melon leaned into drama with inflated proportions that created movement and visual impact with every step, featuring puff pants and skirts that balanced whimsy with couture precision.
Black Coffee reimagined the trend through fluid garments that emphasised motion, while Anunes proved the silhouette was not limited to womenswear, introducing bubble pants into menswear. On Duty Jeans also explored relaxed proportions with flared and puffed trouser shapes in its menswear offering.
A satin chocolate brown dress with ruffle details by Irene Makhuvu Designs.
Image: Eunice Driver Photography/Supplied
The in-vogue shade of dark chocolate - increasingly dubbed the “new black” for 2026 - was a recurring feature across the SAFW SS26 runway.
Irene Makhuvu Designs presented a standout silk chocolate-brown knee-length gown, while Something Good Design incorporated the tone in layered pieces, including a weathered chocolate jacket styled over a white maxi dress. Ephymol brought the shade into menswear through a striking shirt paired with animal-print trousers and a waistcoat.
Emilia D combined chocolate brown with polka-dot detailing for a distinctive menswear suit, while On Duty Jeans featured the colour prominently across its streetwear-inspired collection.
A black gown from Something Good Designs which features a cinched waist.
Image: Eunice Driver Photography/Supplied
Cinched waists returned as a defining silhouette, drawing attention to sharply defined midsections that contrasted with fuller shapes above and below. The detail added structure and intention, sculpting the body into an hourglass form.
Gert-Johan Coetzee’s “Behind the Crimson Door” collection featured multiple cinched silhouettes, including gowns and structured coats. Black Coffee’s two-piece skirt and trouser sets were similarly tapered at the waist before flaring out, while Irene Makhuvu Designs used tailoring and belted detailing to emphasise the silhouette.
Even menswear embraced the trend, with Sinchui’s blazers and jackets moving away from boxy cuts toward more sculpted, body-contouring shapes that highlighted proportion and form.