Kitchen contradictions: how men, not women, dominate professional cooking

Yumna Zahid Ali|Published

DESPITE the outdated stereotype that 'women belong in the kitchen,' the professional culinary world is overwhelmingly dominated by men, argues the letter writer.

Image: File

The whole “women belong in the kitchen” concept is one I’ve never been able to make logical sense of. I mean, the modern professional kitchen runs on a brigade system, which was created by Auguste Escoffier, a man. Men are the ones running the “brigade de cuisine” (the official structured kitchen system used worldwide). Roles like executive chef, sous chef, saucier, and grillardin are overwhelmingly filled by men. In fine dining, men dominate every tier, from head chefs down to line cooks. Kitchens in hotels, five-star restaurants, and resorts are massively male-staffed.

If we talk about culinary awards and recognition, then men dominate Michelin-starred restaurants (only about 6-7% are run by women). The most well-known celebrity chefs on TV (Gordon Ramsay, Jamie Oliver, Anthony Bourdain, and Wolfgang Puck) are men. Men win the majority of prestigious cooking awards, chief among them being the James Beard Award. This shows the industry crowns men as the “masters of cuisine”.

Most food TV shows, cooking competitions, and culinary documentaries feature male chefs as judges and hosts. Anthony Bourdain (Parts Unknown), Gordon Ramsay (Hell’s Kitchen, MasterChef), and Guy Fieri (Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives), all men. Women are present, but men dominate the face of global food entertainment. If kitchens are on screen, men are usually in charge.

Men own and operate many of the world’s most famous restaurant chains. They hold leadership in fine dining, luxury hospitality, and catering empires. Men often get more investment, recognition, and media coverage when opening restaurants compared to women. The kitchen industry, when it’s business, is heavily male-led.

Men have created global culinary empires, e.g., Nobu Matsuhisa (Nobu Restaurants), José Andrés (World Central Kitchen and restaurants), and Thomas Keller (The French Laundry). These chefs are international icons, recognised not only for their cooking but also for redefining cuisine worldwide.

If people keep saying women belong in the kitchen, then they clearly haven’t looked at the real kitchen industry. Men are the chefs; men are the ones plating dishes, designing cuisines, winning Michelin stars, hosting food shows, and running restaurant empires. If anyone ‘belongs in the kitchen’, the evidence says it’s men. Women belong everywhere else, too, from the director’s chair to the political stage. Therefore, please stop boxing women in a room that men already control.| YUMNA ZAHID ALI, Karachi, Pakistan